Bookings and Regulations

This section contains information about expedition formalities.
 
Pakistan
           
Outstanding issues

• Hindu Kush and Siachen areas are not currently open
• Porters wage problems (definition of stages)
• Helicopter rescue expensive and requires a deposit of $6,000.00
• Environment control must be improved (Baltoro in particular)

Bookings 

Bookings can be processed at any time

• Government agency takes about one month to clear the formalities
• No permission necessary for filming, using GPS or satellite phone
• No permission necessary or fees for peaks up to 6,500 metres
• Peak fees have been reduced for 2008 by 50% in the Baltoro Range and by 90% in the Hunza Valley
  L.O. required only in the Baltoro and in restricted areas
  

• Expensive fees for 8000m and group size minimum 7
• Everest is mainly booked by commercial expeditions, resulting in increased costs for services and staff 
• Lack of documentation regarding small open peaks
• Poor environment control
• Enforcement of safety regulations for local staff

Current situation - Bookings

• Bookings can be processed at any time
• Long list of free peaks or with discounted fees  
• Many trekking peaks available  (check www.nepalmountaineering.org)
   

• No free altitude peaks and limited trekking peaks
• Siachen area is officially open, but problems have been encountered when applying for permission
• Duplication of permits and Liaison Officers (costs) for climbing in Sikkim 

Current situation 

• Booking easy and quicker application processing since 2007 
• Simple rules for Liaison Officers
• No new mountaineering areas open since 1983

• Chinese mountain areas are mostly open with reasonable costs, easy approach, simple formalities
• The most interesting Regions are:  Xinkiang with Karakoram, Tian Shan, Kun Lun Range with many possibilities
• Some new routes still available on 8000m
• Sichuan, Qingai, Yunnan are regions with easy approach for mountains up 7000m. All kinds of mountaineering possible
                          

China – Tibet Autonomous Region  

Outstanding issues

• Relations between the CTMA staff and expedition leaders is not simple, mainly due to communication problems
• East Tibet is very interesting, but booking procedures are still difficult and expensive
• In 2008 all costs in Tibet have increased by approximately 50%
• Everest is out of control in terms of environmental impact and ethics of climbing
• Commercial expeditions on Everest, Shisa and Cho Oyu are producing a lot of pollution

Current situation

• All areas and climbing activities are strictly controlled by CTMA (China Tibet Mountaineering Association – Lhasa)
• Easy booking for peaks in the Himalaya range
• Protocol with all rules and costs
• CTMA has produced a series of books with detailed photos and maps of mountains
• Mountaineering school educates a significant number of very skilled high altitude porters.
    

Mountaineering Addresses in China

Chinese Mountaineering Association
No.9 Tiyuguan Road, Chongwen District
Beijing, China
Phone: 0086-10-67102787   
Fax: 0086-10-67111629
Email: cma8848@hotmail.com

China Tibet Mountaineering Association
No. 10 East Linkhor Road  Lhasa 850000
P.R. of China
Tel: (+86-891) 6322934
Fax: (+86-891) 6336366
E-Mail: cuomu@public.ls.xz.cn

Sichuan Mountaineering Association
No.2 South Yihuan Road
Chengdu, Sichuan 610041
P.R. China
Tel:(86-28)558-8047
Fax:(86-28)558-8042

China Xinjiang Mountaineering Association
312# Guizhou Road,  Urumqi, XinJiang
P.R. of China
Tel: (+86-991) 2817776, 2823923
Fax: (+86-991) 2818365  
Email:cxma@mail.xj.cninfo.net

The main peaks are located between Tadjikistan, Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan and Russia. Access is now easy and all peaks are served by organised base camp often shared between the mountaineering organisations operating in the area who can arrange all necessary services. Peaks are not restricted and no fees are requested.

Bhutan                       
Still closed for expeditions.
 
Myanmar
Hkakabo Razi is open with special permit. Few limited organizations are able to do it.
 
North America
If you plan to use a guide service or guide for Mt. McKinley, make certain that the service is authorised by Denali National Park and Preserve. Each year climbers mistakenly pay illegal guides that advertise their services. Illegal guiding is prohibited and these climbs could be canceled at any time. Click here for a current list of authorised guide services. If you are uncertain about a guide service, please contact the national park office for verification.

 
South America
Up until now there have been no restrictions on climbing, but there are some rumours about restriction on Aconcagua / Huascaran.  Booking fee is requested only for climbing Aconcagua and permit for this mountain must be requested in Mendoza (Argentina) at the local government office.
 
Oceania
Cartensz (one of the seven summits) is open with special permits. Only a few organisations have access rights.
 
Africa
For information regarding the three highest mountains of Africa please use the following links:             
Mount Kenya
Mount Kilimanjaro
Mount Ruwenzori

Antarctic                        
In the last few years, there has been a significant amount of interest in the Antarctic area, and in particular for climbs on Mount Vinson, the highest peak in the area.  There are lots of interesting peaks however the high cost of travel to the area, limits the number of actual climbs being undertaken.  At present there is only one company providing services for the Antarctic area (Adventure Network).