From Leaders to Champions


UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour,
supported by The North Face Korea

World Cup & European Championships
Rabenstein, Italy
29-31 January, 2016

From Leaders to Champions 

Copyright (all pictures): Patrick Schwienbacher for the UIAA

The 2016 UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour ended in style in Rabenstein, Italy this weekend following an exciting season finale.

The podium positions for the weekend were as follows:

Men’s Speed

1. Radomir Proschenko (RUS)

2. Egor Trapeznikov (RUS)

3. Pavel Batushev (RUS)

Women’s Speed

1.   Maria Tolokoni­na (RUS)

2.   Ekaterina Koshcheeva (RUS)

3.   Maryam Filippova (RUS)

Men’s Lead

1.   Janez Svoljšak (SLO)

2.   Yannick Glatthard (SUI)

3.   HeeYong Park (KOR)

Women’s Lead

1.   Song HanNaRai (KOR)

2.   Petra Klinger (SUI)

3.   Maryam Filippova (RUS)

The simultaneous European championships took place with the following athletes claiming the honours:

Men’s Speed

Radomir Proschenko (RUS)

Women’s Speed

Maria Tolokonina (RUS)

Men’s Lead

Janez Svoljšak (SLO)

Women’s Lead

Petra Klinger (SUI)

This fourth and final event of the season also confirmed the winners of the overall 2016 UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour rankings. The season champions are:

Maxim Tomilov (RUS), male speed

Maria Tolokonina (RUS), female speed

Maxim Tomilov (RUS), male lead

Maria Tolokonina (RUS), female lead


Men’s speed: The situation couldn’t have been more dramatic going into the weekend. Just sixteen points separated the leading four athletes. In search of his first title in speed, lead specialist Maxim Tomilov held a narrow 9-point lead over older brother Alexey. Vladimir Kartashev winner in round 2 in Cheongsong lay just a further six points back. Alexey Vagin was 16 points behind the leader. It seemed like a winner takes all situation.

As it turned out some new names took the plaudits. Radomir Proschenko took gold with a best time of 8.29 ahead of compatriots Egor Trapeznikov and Pavel Batushev. None of the aforementioned
frontrunners finished in the top seven which meant a moderate 13thplace was enough to give Maxim Tomilov a first world title in speed. His winning margin over Vagin a mere five points. Four different athletes claimed gold medals in the season’s four events.

Women’s speed: The imperious Maria Tolokonina was the athlete to beat following two golds and a silver. Defending champion Ekaterina Koshcheeva lay a sizeable 62 points behind and Maryam Filippova a further point back. It would require a major loss of form for the leader not to be crowned champion. This didn’t happen. Proving to be the athlete of the entire series, Tolokonina claimed gold with a best time of 11.44. Her overall margin of victory on ranking was 88 points.



Men’s lead: Maxim Tomilov’s lead in lead was more secure, some 74 points ahead of Korean star HeeYong Park. A forth title for Tomilov was duly delivered despite a fifth place finish on the weekend.

The battle for the podium was heated and after a costly delay of getting tangled in his rope Park took bronze medal. Following an impressive performance last week in Saas Fee, Swiss youngster Yannick Glatthard confirmed his amazing promise with a silver medal. Gold was reserved for Janez Svoljsak, the young Slovenian in the first UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour season. Tomilov won the series by 60 points.



Women’s lead: This was the only title decided going into the weekend. Three golds had ensured that Tolokonina was champion. Would she claim a forth?

The answer surprisingly was no. Tolokonina and defending champion – local favourite Angelika Rainer – both fell reasonably low down on the route and were shock exits from the competition. After a tense wait and a thrilling competition Fillipova took bronze, Petra Klingler silver and after a frustrating season of near misses, Korean athlete Song HanNaRai finally took gold.

Next weekend, 6-7 February, Rabenstein will host the UIAA World Youth Championships.

The best photos from the UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour, are available on the UIAA Flickr account.

Video highlights from the events are available on the UIAAYouTube and Vimeo channels.





1) Maxim Tomilov (RUS) 331 points

2) HeeYong Park (KOR) 271

3) Janez Svoljšak (SLO) 270


1) Maria Tolokonina (RUS) 340 points

2) Ekaterina Vlasova (RUS) 240

3) Song HanNaRai (KOR) 235



1) Maxim Tomilov (RUS) 221 points

2) Alexey Vagin (RUS) 216

3) Vladimir Kartashev (RUS) 214


1) Maria Tolokonina (RUS) 380 points

2) Ekaterina Koshcheeva (RUS) 292

3) Maryam Filippova (RUS) 276

Full results and details about the 2016 UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour sponsored by The North Face Korea are at: