Advice for women going to altitude

The tenth in our series exploring the UIAA MedCom’s high-altitude advice focuses on women going to altitude with specific advice for both pregnant and non-pregnant women. This paper was first produced in 2008 and is available in English, Czech, Dutch, German, Italian, Japanese, Persian, Polish, Portuguese,...

TREATING FROSTBITE IN THE FIELD

Our recent article, How Frostbite Occurs, assessed how frostbite develops and its different stages. This related extract from the UIAA Alpine Skills Summer handbook focuses on treating frostbite in the field. At basecamp or in a shelter Warm, sweet fluids. Aspirin: 500 to 1,000 mg (unless otherwise indicated)...

Online climbing gear: are you buying safe equipment?

The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) recently published a guide regarding the potential perils of buying climbing equipment online, notably the abundance of non-certified equipment offered by dubious sellers. The UIAA endorses the BMC article which advises buying gear 'which conform(s) to the relevant CEN or UIAA standard,...

Mountain Skills: How frostbite occurs

The higher we climb, the colder it gets: atmospheric air temperature drops by 1.2 degrees for every 200 metres of elevation gain, or six degrees per 1,000 metres. Meanwhile, extended physical exertion requires extra energy at higher elevations. Thus when you feel drained due to...