The 2027 World Anti-Doping Code and updated International Standards were approved in December 2025 and will take effect on 1 January 2027. Throughout 2026, anti-doping organisations worldwide will focus on updating their rules and educating athletes, coaches, and support staff about the key changes.
As part of this effort, the Anti-Doping Commission of the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) held an educational lecture ahead of the UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup in Saas-Fee, Switzerland which took place on 23-24 January. The session was attended by all competing ice climbers.
During the lecture, Prof. Dr Nenad Dikić explained what will change from 2027, including updated rules, possible sanctions, clearer handling of supplements from a “contaminated source,” and increased awareness of the Therapeutic Use Exemption (TUE) process.
The UIAA continues to invest strongly in anti-doping education and testing. With more than 17 years of continuous activity in this field, the federation remains committed to protecting clean sport and supporting athletes through clear rules and informed decision-making.
The UIAA – International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – has published its Annual Report for the year 2024.
For the first time, the UIAA Annual Report is ‘digital only’ meaning no print on-demand versions will be available. The move to a fully digital publication has enabled the UIAA to work on a new format which allows for a more seamless integration with articles and assets on the UIAA website, with photos and with video content. The decision not to print the report also offers a more sustainable solution and will be reflected in the UIAA’s Carbon Footprint Report for 2025.
The UIAA Annual Report now resides on a platform. Future editions of the report will follow the same format and also be available online. The Report is best viewed in desktop or tablet mode. Future editions will also be optimised for mobile.
There is also a short-form version available as PDF which introduces the platform concept and includes two of the core elements of the Annual Report; the President’s Message and the Finance Report. It can be viewed here.
“Recent editions of the UIAA Annual Report have been well received by members and delegates. The UIAA has always viewed the report not only as a statutory deliverable but as a showcase for the federation’s annual work and progress. The move to a platform was over-due as the previous hybrid digital-print version had certain limitations in offering integration with video and comprehensive information from the UIAA website and other key sources.”
Peter Bourne, UIAA Communication Manager
Content includes:
Executive Review: Report from UIAA President Peter Muir, review of the federation’s annual General Assembly, details on the Strategic Priorities 2025-2028
Achievements: Reports related to the federation’s main achievements for 2024 which included an inaugural international training course in Argentina, the launch of a high-peak medical advice series, the creation of platforms for rock anchor/bolting research, accident and near-miss databases and climbing/mountaineering legal case studies.
UIAA Commission stories: Top stories from UIAA Commissions; Anti-Doping, Legal, Medical, Mountaineering, Mountain Protection, Safety, Training and Youth. Each comes with a personal message from the Commission President.
Competition sport: Reports from the World Ice Climbing Board on the UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour and from International Skyrunning Federation, a UIAA Unit Member.
Continental Reports: Reports from all continents highlighting UIAA member association activities
Finance and Membership: Financial reports and an overview of UIAA membership and of all delegates and staff supporting the UIAA.
An archive of UIAA Annual Reports (dating back to 2009) can be found here.
May proved to be a productive month in terms of international climbing and mountaineering meetings both organised and attended by the UIAA.
Below are reports from the UIAA spring meeting (as well as from an online meeting for UIAA member associations) and from two events attended by UIAA delegates: the annual General Assembly of European Mountaineering Association (EUMA) and the annual Technical Meeting of International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA-UIAGM-IVBV).
UIAA Management Board meetings. Held in Bern, Switzerland and online
The annual UIAA ‘spring meetings’ took place from 9-10 May with delegates attending both at the UIAA HQ in Bern, Switzerland and joining online. The first day was dedicated to reports from the UIAA’s nine Commissions and followed the next day by the main Management Board session.
Commission Reports and Projects
Each Commission shared updates on their current projects:
Anti-Doping (Dr Marija Andjelkovic): Having recently delivered doping controls as part of the UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour, the focus is firmly on maintaining compliance with WADA regulations and expanding education programmes.
Legal Affairs (Klara Dvorakova): The number of entries in the database of mountaineering and climbing accidents case laws continues to augment. The LAC is also supporting other UIAA commissions with subjects related to governance and compliance.
Medical (Urs Hefti): In January, the Medical Commission spearheaded the drafting of a UIAA statement on xenon gas use in high-altitude mountaineering. A MedCom Working Group continues to deliver papers dedicated to some of the world’s major summits. The latest publication focused on Everest. MedCom is currently involved in discussions on how best it can actively participate in a very large international conference on high altitude medicine which will take place in the UK in spring 2026. A revision to the paper dedicated to children is due later in 2025.
Mountaineering (Greg Moseley): Following the publication of the seminal UIAA Declaration on Hiking, Climbing and Mountaineering, MountCom has focused on creating working groups (WGs) dedicated to two key strategic priorities – hiking and rock climbing – with a further working group dedicated to access ready to launch. The Commission is also looking at how best to revive both an Expeditions WG and the Mountain Worker Initiative. Furthermore, the Accident Data Reporting WG continues to make progress on developing best practice case studies following the soft launch of its database of reporting systems late last year.
Safety (Lionel Kiener): SafeCom recently celebrated its 50th anniversary at a major event in Chamonix which included the Commission’s annual plenary and internal meetings, public conferences and dedicated workshops. Highlights included the approval for the publication of two new standards (Static Ropes and Via Ferrata construction) and amendments to several other Standards. Further details to follow shortly.
Training (Steve Long): Following a successful workshop held in Malta following last year’s General Assembly, planning continues for a similar session this year to coincide with the UIAA GA in Kosovo. The revised UIAA Alpine Handbook has been printed in English with the digital version to be available for purchase from June 2025. The Training Commission, represented by Steve Long, was invited as a keynote speaker at a recent international conference on Adventure Tourism held in the United Arab Emirates and organised by UIAA associate member The Fujairah Adventures Center.
Youth (Jane Carney, VP): The Youth Commission continues to work on defining and developing a structure for global youth events under the UIAA umbrella. Focus is on improving registration systems for events, developing course programmes and enhancing the voice of youth in the Commission structure.
Commission Member (CM) regulation revisions were reviewed, including issues of nominee endorsement, hybrid meeting policies, and voting rights. These will be further vetted by the Legal Affairs Commission.
UIAA Management Board Executive Meeting The UIAA Management Board (MB) convened for its Executive Session the following day. The main topics included a review strategic developments and governance matters.
World Ice Climbing Board Strategy The WIC Board, led by JoAnne Carilli-Stevenson, presented an extensive update on the progress of the Board since its formation at the UIAA GA in October, including its 2025-2026 budget and strategic roadmap through 2030. The dual-path strategy considers both Olympic Winter Games inclusion in 2030 or continued independent development. Priorities, to be led by different for Committees, include rulebook revision, athlete safeguarding, funding models, federation engagement, and improved media strategy.
The provisional calendar for the 2025-2026 UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour will be published by late June. The UIAA WIC Board continues to welcome interest from potential sponsors and partners.
EC Working Groups, Governance and Membership Progress reports were given on various EC Working Groups. The Finance and Audit WG has put together a proposal to update membership fee models. This will be an agenda item at the GA in Kosovo.
Financial forecasts were presented showing a manageable deficit for Q1 2025. Budget planning for 2026 is underway and closely linked to strategic priorities. The 2024 financial results were approved and recommended to the GA.
Membership updates included recommendations to approve full and associate memberships for new applicants from Congo and North Macedonia. The UIAA’s global reach is expanding, with mentorship pilots planned to support federations in areas not yet represented by the UIAA.
Annual Report and Communication The new online platform for the UIAA Annual Report was presented. The Annual Report for 2024 will be the first fully digital report, allowing for greater integration with the UIAA website as well as video and imagery. In terms of content, the 2024 Annual Report focuses more closely on annual achievements, commission highlights and aligned with strategic priorities. Publication is scheduled for late June.
The UIAA has recently concluded an outreach campaign to all member associations which included the sharing of a digital toolkit, links to key assets including details of member benefits.
Climate and Environmental Action A report was provided by the Climate Change Task Force (CCTF), whose remit is currently focused on engaging federations and commissions with clear objectives. Activities, in addition to what is covered in the MPC report detailed above, include webinars, a summit, and a new climate ambassador programme.
UIAA Online Meeting for Member Associations
Two weeks after the UIAA spring meetings, an online update was held for UIAA member associations. The topics covered above, including Commission reports, progress made by the UIAA since last year’s General Assembly and decisions taken at the MB meeting, were presented to attending members.
General Assembly of European Mountaineering Association (EUMA)
UIAA Executive Committee member Simon Alden addressing delegates at the 2025 EUMA General Assembly. Photo credit: EUMA
The 2025 General Assembly of EUMA was held from 16-18 May in Bohinj, Slovenia and was hosted by the Alpine Association of Slovenia (PZS). The event gathered 50 participants, including 24 of EUMA’s 30 full members, making it a strong and representative meeting of the European mountaineering community.
The UIAA was represented by Executive Committee member Simon Alden. His message was one of support and encouraging further collaboration between the UIAA and EUMA on specific projects. A report from EUMA can be found here.
IFMGA Annual Technical Meeting
Philippe Quintart, UIAA Office, provides an overview of the UIAA SafeCom activities at the annual IFMGA Technical Meeting. Photo credit: UIAA/Andre von Rotz
In late May, the UIAA, through CEO Andre von Rotz and Mountain Safety Project Manager Philippe Quintart attended the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA-UIAGM-IVBV) Technical Meeting in Arco, Italy. This significant gathering brought together technical directors and experts from the 28 IFMGA member associations worldwide as well as guests for five days of intensive professional development, knowledge exchange, and international collaboration.
The Spring Technical Meeting serves as a cornerstone of international mountain guiding standards, providing a crucial platform where technical directors can exchange information and engage in conversations about the evolution of the mountain guides profession. This annual gathering aims to build increasingly higher standards for mountain guide training worldwide.
“It was important for the UIAA to be present in Arco. Cooperation between likeminded bodies will contribute positively to safety in mountain sports in the coming months and years,” explained von Rotz.
The meeting came just weeks after the UIAA Safety Commission’s highly successful series of meetings in Chamonix, France. A number of notable steps to strengthen synergy between the UIAA and IFMGA were taken at the meeting.
This included the appointment of Alessandro Bellini as IFMGA delegate to the UIAA Safety Commission; IFMGA were invited to contribute to the UIAA’s Mountain Sport Symposium to be held as part of the UIAA General Assembly in Kosovo in October; technical directors from IFMGA were encouraged to join UIAA SafeCom working groups while the UIAA SafeCom reiterated its availability to support testing and research on guiding related safety topics.
The 2025 UIAA General Assembly will be held in Peja, Kosovo from 23-26 October and concludes with a Mountain Sports Symposium. Further details will be available in due course.
Anybody interested in receiving a printed copy can do so by filling in the following form. Please note that there is a limited print run and first priority will be given to UIAA member associations and delegates.
The format of the 2023 Annual Report has evolved from recent editions. Most notably a dedicated annex provides information on the UIAA financial report, membership and a directory of key personnel.
Content includes:
Executive Review: Report from UIAA President Peter Muir, calendar of main UIAA stories from 2023, review of the federation’s annual General Assembly
Special Projects: Reports on climate change, fundraising, UIAA Strategic Plan, UIAA Mountain Protection Award, Communication, International Skyrunning Federation and Accident Reporting Working Group
UIAA Commission stories: Top stories from UIAA Commissions; Anti-Doping, Legal, Medical, Mountaineering, Mountain Protection, Safety, Training, Youth as well as from the Ice Climbing World Tour
Continental Reports: Reports from all continents highlighting UIAA member association activities
An archive of UIAA Annual Reports (dating back to 2009) can be found here.
The UIAA Management Board (MB) held its second meeting of 2024 in Bariloche, Argentina. The event was part of a wider climbing and mountaineering meet which saw the UIAA jointly organise the inaugural International Mountain Sports Training Course with host federation FASA (Federación Argentina de Ski Snowboard y Andinismo) and the ISMM (International Society for Mountain Medicine). A report, and extensive video content, from that event will be available shortly.
Below is a short summary of the key decisions and talking points from the UIAA MB meeting and, courtesy of UIAA Commission Presidents, information on the status of core UIAA projects.
Commission Elections
Below is a summary of the MB Commission elections:
Jane Carney (MI, Ireland) elected Vice President, UIAA Youth Commission
Paul Kwakkenbos (NKBV, Netherlands) elected President, UIAA Mountain Protection Commission
Victor Saunders (BMC, UK) elected Vice President, UIAA Mountaineering Commission
A further eight delegates were newly elected as full members of UIAA Commissions. The official lists of UIAA Commission delegates have been updated on the UIAA website.
The UIAA thanks outgoing Mountain Protection Commission President Dr Carolina Adler for her enormous commitment to the UIAA throughout her two terms. Carolina helmed the Commission through a period of significant achievement including the continued growth of the UIAA Mountain Protection Award and the spearheading of the UIAA as a signatory, and a major contributor, to a number of major international declarations and pledges.
UIAA Management Board meeting in Bariloche, Argentina
Strategic Plan: 2025-2028
The current UIAA Strategic Plan (SP) expires in 2024 with working group assigned to produce a comprehensive strategy for the period 2025-2028. Significant analysis has gone into the drafting of the new SP with insights drawn from various tools and databases as well as considered input from stakeholders.
In terms of analysis the following has been produced:
SWOT Analysis: Identifying the UIAA’s strengths, weaknesses, opportunities, and threats, providing a clear picture of the internal and external factors that could impact the federation.
PESTEL Analysis:The political, economic, social, technological, environmental, and legal aspects have been examined to ensure that the strategy aligns with broader external conditions and prevailing trends.
Stakeholder Feedback: A fundamental component of the analysis has been the integration of feedback from various stakeholders notably UIAA member associations and UIAA commissions. This feedback is still welcomed.
Delegates can continue to submit feedback through the following UIAA Strategic Plan 2025-2028: PESTEL & SWOT Analysis form.
One of the chief priorities of the new strategy is to increase the UIAA’s visibility and global reach and to further strengthen its position as a centre of excellence for mountain safety.
The next steps will see the WG develop the draft strategy document for comment and recommendation during the next MB meeting in September and then to be voted on at November’s General Assembly in Malta.
The proposed Strategy is an evolution on the existing one, seeking to build on the achievements and foundations of the past four years as well as integrate learnings and areas of both development and improvement.
Ice Climbing Report & Ice Climbing Governance Group
The Ice Climbing Governing Group provided a detailed report on the 2023-2024 World Tour. The World Tour witnessed eleven events in ten different countries culminating with a UIAA Ice Climbing World Championships and World Cup in Edmonton, Canada.
Focus was also shone on the future of the sport. Here, a new governance model was proposed – chiefly the creation of a self-governed Operating Unit under the UIAA umbrella. This proposal would demand updates to the current UIAA Articles of Association as ultimately the creation of new operational guidelines to guide the future direction of the sport. The feedback from the MB was positive, with some clarifications requested regarding some operational questions and risks.
Further information will be made available ahead of likely formal recommendation to the GA in November.
Workshop activities at the International International Mountain Sports Training Course held near Bariloche
Commission Reports
UIAA Commission Presidents each presented information on the progress of ongoing projects. A brief summary can be found here:
Anti-Doping Marija Andjelkovic (PSS, Serbia)
The UIAA Anti-Doping Commission again provided close support to the UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour with both in and out of competition testing as well as educational workshops for climbers including one dedicated to youth.
A significant milestone for the Commission is ensuring that the UIAA is compliant with the latest WADA (World Anti-Doping Agency) Code. This process should be completed shortly.
Legal Klara Dvorakova (CMLA, Czech Republic)
The UIAA Legal Affairs Commission recently completed a major project, the launch of its international database of climbing and mountaineering case laws. The database includes judgments from courts, tribunals, and authoritative bodies. Users can search for cases based on the key activity, e.g. winter hiking, outdoor climbing, indoor climbing, the accident location, or type of a proceeding, e.g. civil, criminal, or disciplinary. Each entry includes a comment from the UIAA Legal Affairs Commission and links to the original case-law if available. The intention is for the database to serve as a live tool with regular updates. Full details here.
The Legal Affairs Commission encourages UIAA members to help contribute to this important library. Specific case studies, notably the important takeaways, will also be highlighted in future UIAA newsletters.
Medical Urs Hefti (SAC, Switzerland)
The Medical Commission played an instrumental role in the organisation of the International Mountain Sports Training Course with several of its members involved in the running of the event and giving presentations. A full report will be published shortly.
Towards the close of 2023, the MedCom members contributed to the publication of several new papers dedicated to women at altitude. Further details can be found here. A summary of these papers, intended for the general public rather than for medical experts, will be released shortly. This topic was also the subject of the most recent episode of the UIAA podcast, Mountain Voices.
Another MedCom working group has been particularly active in producing guides to some of the world’s most iconic peaks. Papers published to date include those on Denali, Fuji, Lenin Peak,Kosciuszko and Aconcagua. The next scheduled paper is on Everest.
Mountaineering Greg Moseley (MCSA, South Africa)
MountCom continues to work on a new paper inspired by the 2002 Tyrol Declaration. An abridged version of the document, in a poster form, was presented at the UIAA General Assembly in October. MountCom hopes to finalise the paper over the coming months. The final publication will address topics such as the UIAA’s stance on ethics in mountaineering.
The Commission has also set up a number of working groups to either revive or launch projects related to the following topics: access, hiking trails and rock climbing.
The subjects of hiking and rock climbing were discussed in detail during the MB meeting, with the future UIAA strategy likely to lean more on the promotion of these activities which are often an entry point for people into climbing and mountaineering.
Members of MountCom featured on a recent UIAA podcast episode dedicated to Everest and the 2024 season.
Mountain Protection Carolina Adler (NZAC, New Zealand)
As referenced above, the Commission is now under the leadership of Paul Kwakkenbos following Carolina Adler’s end of second term.
Among the projects expected to be delivered over the coming months are the new UIAA Social & Environmental Sustainability Guidelines. These guidelines were first released in 2002 to mark the inaugural International Year of Mountains. A decision to revise the document was made in 2022 to coincide with the International Year of Sustainable Mountain Development and the 2023-2027 UN Five Years of Action for the Development of Mountain Regions. The new document raises a number of topics and addresses the impact of mountaineering as an activity. Sections are dedicated to the subjects of climate change action and adaptation, waste and pollution, biodiversity and social impacts. As well as addressing issues, the document also seeks to provide guidance, awareness, education and collaboration. For example, it offers advice on how the climbing community can take positive action and how climbers and mountaineers can continue about their activities in a more sustainable and less impactful way and engage in affecting positive change.
The Commission has also published the UIAA Carbon Footprint Reports for 2021 and 2022 with the 2023 analysis imminent.
Safety is another Commission producing a valuable amount of work. Its position statement recommendation on avalanche transceivers, published in December 2023, has been well received internationally.
SafeCom is working on a number of new or revised standards including one dedicated to helmet rim impact, which is penned for release by end of the year. A working group has been assigned a project on highly static ropes to complement the existing standard on dynamic ropes. Additionally, research is being committed into the following subjects – via Ferratas, ageing of textile of various materials subjected to humidity, UVs and thermal cycles.
The Commission’s important research into the welding of top anchors continues. This process has included a direct collaboration between the UIAA and manufacturers in terms of enhancing production and quality processes with the aim of reducing the number of recorded voids and cracks. Following the release of its revised Rock Anchor Standard in 2020, the UIAA is happy to see the continued increase in new certificate rock anchors on the market.
The UIAA continues to update its map of known anchor corrosions and is very grateful to climbers who have submitted case studies for the project. The general public can contribute to this research by completing the following online form.
Significant work is being done to improve the outreach of the Safety Label. The UIAA has met with a number of Safety Label Holders and retailers throughout 2024 to develop projects of mutual interest including the promotion of the safety label. Meanwhile, the video guide to the UIAA Safety Label has recently been translated into over 20 languages. Further details here.
The UIAA Safety Commission held its first in-person annual meeting in Padova, Italy in early May. A full report will be published shortly.
Training Steve Long (BMC, UK)
The new UIAA Training database is live and ready for member associations to use and apply for qualifications to renew qualifications. The database will shortly be synced with a map on the UIAA website which will publicly show the live accreditations. An explainer about the UIAA database can be viewed here:
The revised English version of the UIAA Alpine Handbook is set for a print run before the GA. It will include a number of new visuals. A winter edition is in progress. The UIAA is looking at ways of making the books available to a wider audience through an app or equivalent.
Following the MB meeting, the UIAA Training Commission – led by Steve Long – supported a collaborative course involving two UIAA member associations – FEACH (Chile) and FEDME (Spain). Further details to follow.
Youth Pavlos Georgiades (CMCOF, Cyprus)
Details of four youth camps endorsed by the UIAA Youth Commission can be found on the UIAA website calendar. Application information and course programmes are included. The Commission continues to look at integrating UIAA training certificates and modules to its causes. Future goals including increasing the number of youth camps, and increasing the number outside of Europe.
The next UIAA MB meeting will be held online on Saturday 7 September.
UIAA member associations will be able to receive a further update – and pose questions – during a special online UIAA member federation update to be held on Saturday 25 May from 13:00-14:30.
At the recent UIAA Ice Climbing World Youth Championships, young climbers had the opportunity to compete for global titles on one of the world’s most iconic competition towers. Across lead and speed disciplines and in U16, U18 and U20 categories, athletes from ten different countries claimed the 36 medals available.
Before the competition in Champagny-en-Vanoise, France, youngsters were given a full briefing of what to expect from the event. This included a presentation from the UIAA Anti-Doping Commission. The UIAA was one of the first international federations to include an educational component as part of the granting of its annual athlete licence. It is now mandatory for athletes to pass such a test before being cleared to compete.
Dr Marija Andjelkovic briefs youth ice climbers ahead of the 2024 UIAA Ice Climbing World Youth Championships. Photo: Nenad Dikic
The UIAA Anti-Doping Commission has worked impressively to ensure full and up to date compliance with the regulations of WADA, the World Anti-Doping Agency. In Champagny, over 50 athletes attended the briefing given by Commission President Professor/Dr Marija Andjelkovic, supported by former Commission President Professor/Dr Nenad Dikic. The most important messages relayed related to the WADA Code, the latest list of prohibited substances, Therapeutic Use Exemptions (TUEs), the Doping Control Process, the use of dietary supplements and drugs, with several questions posted regarding the use of tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) and TUEs.
As Professor Dikic explains: “The session with the athletes was very useful for both ourselves and the athletes. A robust educational plan should always involve live lectures, an open Q&A forum and direct contact. Athletes can learn a lot from the question posed by their peers.”
During the 2023 UIAA General Assembly (full report to follow) held in Trabzon, Türkiye, the nine UIAA Commissions provided updates about the progress made this year and priorities for the next 12 months.
Anti-Doping Commission
Marija Andjelkovic (PSS, Serbia)
Continued work to remain compliant with the WADA Code:
Upcoming deadline in November to meet all the latest requirements from WADA.
Submission of information for both UIAA Ice Climbing competitions and Skyrunning, UIAA Unit Member.
Ensuring athletes have all the information they need to understand everything about the doping process.
Finalisation of a database of laws related to mountaineering and climbing accidents
This will go live on the UIAA website in the coming weeks, with seven international cases currently processed and posted.
The database will serve as a tool to increase knowledge amongst members and the climbing community regarding legal risks and consequences of mountaineering and climbing.
In its report findings, there will be an opportunity to showcase UIAA’s other work in international safety standards (medical, training, Safety Label) and introduce a more educational component.
Medical Commission Urs Hefti (Switzerland, SAC)
Revision to the paper on Women in High Altitude published in High Altitude Medicine & Biology journal, one of leading journals in high altitude medicine. To be available on the UIAA website shortly.
Revision to paper on children – is currently at a research and literature search.
Development of revised high-altitude peak-specific papers. The intention is to bring existing papers up to date and develop new ones for different mountain regions and ranges. The first one in this new series has been published – dedicated to Denali. To be followed by Fuji (November 2023) and Kilimanjaro and Aconcagua (early in January 2024).
2024 Medical Conference: Work is underway for an international medical and safety meeting in Bariloche, Argentina in April. This will run in parallel with the UIAA Management Committee meeting. Medical events will include lectures, workshops, and practical field work.
Mountain Protection
Carolina Adler (New Zealand, NZAC)
Finalisation of revised Environmental Objectives and Guidelines. The original document was published 20 years ago for International Year of Mountains. The new guidelines focus on the significant change in the impact of climate change, and our understanding about its impact on the mountains.
The aim is to release the document for International Mountain Day, 11 December 2023.
The release will be supported by a communication campaign to focus on some of the document’s individual aims and objectives with case studies and best practices. UIAA member associations will be provided with these assets to use on their own platforms.
The United Nations General Assembly declared the period 2023–2027 as Five Years of Action for the Development of Mountain Regions:
The UIAA Mountain Protection Commission invites an expression of interest for particular topics that members would like to discuss and develop through webinars and workshops.
Mountaineering
Greg Moseley (South Africa, MCSA)
The Commission has created a number of working groups:
One, spearheaded by an initiative from the Club Alpino Italiano (CAI), is looking at hiking and trails.
A second, is focused on climbing festivals and evolving the UIAA’s Rock Climbing Festival Award.
An update to the 2002 Tyrol Declaration is in progress and in a more simplified format. A draft version was presented to delegates. Its release is scheduled for the coming months.
The Commission has addressed the question of the number of 8000m peaks, particularly the subject of the 14 x 8000m summits, and released a position paper.
MountCom is working on a number of similar position papers with the intention to provide the UIAA with the ability to interface with mainstream media in a more agile manner. A recent statement focused on the subject of historic mountaineering records.
The Mountain Worker Initiative, focused on the fair and equitable treatment of mountain workers, is being revived after a period of inactivity.
The Commission is working closely with the Mountain Protection Commission regarding guidelines for MPC environmentally conscious expeditions.
Safety Lionel Kiener (Switzerland, SAC)
A recent UIAA website article addressed the progress being made on a number of projects including researching into the welding of top anchors.
Following the testing of a number of random products from UIAA Safety Labels, the UIAA is working on a report detailing the key findings.
Additional research groups are looking into textile degradation and helmet rim impact.
On the subject of canyoning harnesses, SafeCom released a recent warning which addressed degradation based on UV exposure, humidity and heat.
Training
Steve Long (United Kingdom, BMC)
The Commission emphasised the role of the UIAA in providing guidance and guaranteed quality assurance, particularly in light of the number of amateur videos on social media.
Work on the UIAA database is nearly complete with the system to be launched live soon. This will be linked to a world map to see where qualifications are and have been accredited.
The Commission is currently assisting inspections (training labels, instructor and leader qualifications) in Greece, Japan, Mexico and the USA and will soon begin a period of revalidations for certificates which have expired or are nearing expiration.
The UIAA personal skills certificate, focused on individual’s own competence, has proved popular in Hong Kong where thousands of people have been accredited. The Commission believes this has huge potential when rolled out in other countries and with the advent of the database making it easier to apply for such qualifications.
Youth
Pavlos Georgiades (Cyprus, CMCOF)
The Commission’s Innovation Panel, a group of experts from different countries specialised in national youth camps, are working to define the future direction of the UIAA’s youth programmes.
The Youth Commission achieved eight camps of target of ten (two in France, two in Romania, two in Cyprus, Ireland in Austria, one in Spain). The Swiss Alpine Club, FEDME (Spain) and CAI (Italy) are set to host events in 2024
South Korea, through the Korean Alpine Federation (KAF), is set to commit to some significant youth projects in 2024.
Regarding its teaching syllabus, the Commission is working on a cross-Commission project to ensure other aspects of the UIAA are introduced into the syllabus. This will introduce mountain protection, medical and safety aspects as well as a specific focus on mountain culture, trad climbing, sport climbing, hiking as well as ice climbing and others.
During the WADA (World Anti-Doping Agency) annual symposium in Lausanne from 11-12. March, members of the Anti-Doping Commission gathered for their annual meeting.
In addition to discussing helpful information presented during the symposium, the Anti-Doping Commission exchanged experiences from the past 12 months attending UIAA-sanctioned competitions.
The biggest upcoming challenge is the WADA Code Compliance Questionnaire. Successful fulfilment is essential for the sports movement within the UIAA.
Furthermore, a recent article provided an insight into the Doping Control process at a UIAA Ice Climbing event.
Photo (left to right): UIAA Anti-Doping Commission members Professor dr Marija Andjelkovic, Borja Oses and Professor dr Nenad Dikic
The UIAA Anti-Doping Commission, fresh from supporting UIAA Ice Climbing events in South Korea, France and Switzerland, is renowned as one of the most proactive federations in implementing the latest World Anti-Doping Agency (WADA) code and regulations. It is equally respected for its wide knowledge and innovative programmes including educational resources offered to competition ice climbers.
Led by President Marija Andjelkovic and Vice President Nenad Dikic, both from Serbia, they bring significant expertise in anti-doping programmes from a number of international sporting events. The Commission also supports UIAA Unit Member, International Skyrunning Federation.
The UIAA Anti-Doping team performed 12 in-competition controls and four out-of-competition controls during the UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup season. A total of 131 athlete licenses were granted this season meaning that around 12% of the athlete community were tested.
The Commission has recently shared the following step by step guide to a doping control process at a UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup event.
At the outset, this should be emphasised: the integrity of the sample is always key. A departure from these procedures would not necessarily invalidate a test result unless a sample integrity has been affected.
ATHLETE SELECTION
An athlete can be selected for doping control at any time and any place. The selection can be made by place, target or random.
NOTIFICATION
A Doping Control Officer (DCO) or chaperone will notify an athlete that they have been selected for doping control. The DCO or chaperone will inform the athlete of their rights and responsibilities. These include the right to have a representative present throughout the process.
The athlete will be asked to sign a form confirming that you have been selected for doping control.
REPORTING TO THE DOPING CONTROL STATION
The athlete should report immediately to the doping control station.
The DCO or chaperone may allow the athlete to delay reporting to the station for an activity such as a news conference or to complete a training session.
However, once an athlete has been notified that of their selection for doping control, the DCO or chaperone will accompany them until the completion of the sample collection process.
SELECTION OF A COLLECTION VESSEL
The athlete will be given a choice of individually sealed collection vessels. The athlete may select one. The athlete should verify that the equipment is intact and has not been tampered with. The athlete should, at all times, maintain control of the collection vessel.
PROVIDING A SAMPLE
During the sample provision, only the athlete and the DCO or chaperone of the same gender are permitted in the washroom.
The athlete will be asked to wash their hands.
The athlete will then be asked to raise or lower your clothing so that the DCO or chaperone has an unobstructed view while the athlete provides the sample.
VOLUME OF URINE
The DCO shall ensure, in the athlete’s full view, that the athlete has provided the minimum required volume: 90 mL. If at first the athlete is unable to provide 90 mL, they will be asked to provide more until that level is met.
SPLITTING THE SAMPLE
The athlete will be given a choice of individual sealed sample collection kits. They choose one. The athlete should verify the equipment is intact and has not been tampered with. The athlete then opens the kit and confirm the sample code numbers on the bottles, the lids and containers all match.
The athlete splits the sample, pouring at least 30 mL into the B bottle and the remaining urine into the A bottle. The athlete will be asked to leave a small amount in the collection vessel. The reason for this is so the DCO can measure its specific gravity. The athlete pours the urine themselves unless you ask for help. In this instance, the athlete will need to provide consent for your representative or the DCO to pour on their behalf.
SEALING THE SAMPLES
Next, both the A and B bottles are sealed. The athlete (or their representative) and the DCO should verify that the bottles are sealed properly.
MEASURING SPECIFIC GRAVITY
The DCO is required to measure the sample‚ specific gravity. If it does not meet certain requirements, the athlete will be asked to provide another sample.
COMPLETING THE DOPING CONTROL FORM
On this form, the athlete should provide information about any medication, prescription or non-prescription or dietary supplements they have taken recently.
This form is also the place to note any comments the athlete may have regarding any part of the doping control process.
The athlete will be asked whether you consent to have their sample used anonymously for research once the analysis of doping control purposes is completed. They may say yes or no.
The athlete is asked to make sure that they absolutely certain everything is correct, including the sample code number and to make sure, too, that the laboratory copy of the form does not include any information that could identify them. The athlete signs the form.
At the completion of collection, the athlete will receive a copy of your doping control form.
THE LABORATORY PROCESS
The athlete’s samples are packed for shipping by a secure process.
The athlete samples are sent to a WADA-accredited laboratory. When processing the samples, that lab will adhere to the International Standard for Laboratories, ensuring the chain of custody is maintained.
The A sample is analysed.
The B sample is securely stored. It may be used to confirm an Adverse Analytical Finding from the A sample.
The lab will report the results of the sample analysis to the responsible Anti-Doping Organisation and to WADA.
What about blood sample collection?
The same conditions that apply for urine sample collection also apply to the collection of blood samples with regard to notification, identification, escorting and explanation of the procedure.
What modifications exist for minors and athletes with a disability?
Notification In the case of a minor or an athlete with a disability, when they are about selection for doping control, a third party may be notified of that selection as well.
Providing A Sample Minors and athletes with a disability may also have their representative present. However, this representative is not allowed to view the sample provision. Why? The objective is to ensure the DCO is correctly observing the sample provision.
If the athlete decides not to have a representative present, the ADO or DCO may ask a third party to be present.
For full details about the UIAA Anti-Doping Commission click here.
For further information on the UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour please visit the dedicated website.
Main photo: Alex Paun (UIAA Ice Climbing Results Manager), Nenad Dikic (UIAA Anti-Doping Commission Vice President) and Marija Andjelkovic (UIAA Anti-Doping Commission President)
One of the significant segments of the recent UIAA General Assembly (see review here) was the platform provided to the UIAA Commissions, responsible for delivering the federation’s core projects and in alignment with its Strategic Plan. Below is a summary of the Commission presentations from the GA.
The Legal Affairs Commission was created this year. Its mandate is to support all UIAA bodies and specifically in assessing the legality of activities.
In terms of specific projects, the Commission is working on a mountaineering case law database. This is not a study of accidents (please see Mountaineering Commission section for that) rather an international database of public judgements related to accidents in the mountains and in climbing facilities.
Once created the database will allow climbers to search for judgements based on country/criteria and download a summary. Furthermore the Commission invited UIAA member associations to submit and share judgements from their countries.
The Commission also appealed to expand its membership and is specifically looking for lawyers from Switzerland, Germany and the United Kingdom to support its activities.
Working group progress on complex revisions to papers on women and children at altitude continue to advance. The Commission is also collaborating with the International Commission for Alpine Rescue (ICAR) on a paper related to rescue at very high altitudes. Another working group will focus on a revamp of papers dedicated to some of the world’s most famous peaks at high altitude. This includes Kilimanjaro and a number of 8,000m summits. The Commission has also been very active in translating some of its advice papers into video content – notably on drinking safe water and on high-altitude illnesses.
With the Training Panel now an independent Commission, the Mountaineering Commission is focussing on three specific topics.
The first is the continued development of the Mountain Worker Initiative (MWI) which seeks to improve the conditions of mountain workers globally through the development and adoption of specific guidelines.
The Commission is also seeking to add an annex to the seminal Tyrol Declaration, published in 2002. The aim is to add details which reflect the changing landscape of climbing and mountaineering over the past twenty years.
A vast project, one which demands the creation of a specific working group, focuses on accident reporting. This will take the form of a database and reporting system which collects accident data and near misses from UIAA member federations. A cross-Commission project, its longer-term goal is to offer best practices and recommendations for accident reporting and to publish a series of information papers. On a related subject, the Petzl Fondation, in partnership with the University of Lyon, recently supported a doctoral thesis on the Accidentology of Mountain Sports, written by Maud Vanpoulle.
One of the foremost tasks of the Mountain Protection Commission is its updating of the Environmental Objectives and Guidelines which were published in 2002, the first UN declared Year of the Mountains. This year marks the year of Sustainable Mountain Development, offering the Commission an opportune moment to bring these guidelines into the reality of the world today. Part of this work will be harnessing the considerable number of statements, case studies and papers that the UIAA has contributed to during the past twenty years, and addressing the “triple planetary crisis”, as defined by UN Environment Programme: climate change, biodiversity loss, and pollution.
During the GA, the winner of the Mountain Protection Award, the UIAA’s flagship sustainability project, was announced. Discover more here.
SafeCom presented its Safety Label awareness video, launched recently. It hopes this video will raise awareness amongst the climbing community about the importance of purchasing certified equipment. Lionel Kiener raised the need for the UIAA to continue to develop its presence and message in certain areas of the world, particularly in Asia and South America, where climbing equipment is less regulated than in Europe.
The Commission continues to conduct a significant amount of work on developing and revising its safety standards. This includes corrosion and stress corrosion of rock anchors; welding of top anchors and guidelines for canyoning harnesses. In recent years there has been a rise in low strength harnesses degrading rapidly after only a few years of use. The Commission is trying to simulate this environmental degradation of textile equipment to be able to better understand the cause. New standards for headlamps and low stretch ropes continue to progress.
Training President: Steve Long, United Kingdom (BMC)
Like Legal Affairs, Training became an independent Commission in 2022. It offers tangible support to federations developing their training qualification process as well as guidance in how to become a qualified leader. Mentoring and ‘train the trainer’ courses have recently been held, or will soon be held, in the following countries: India, Malta, Mongolia and Saudi Arabia.
The Commission plans on expanding its training resources with more video content and its new training database is shortly to be fully launched and operational. Finally, the Commission is inviting new members to apply, and is seeking to expand the number of countries represented and encourage more female members to join.
Goals of the Youth Commission include greater interaction with the UIAA member associations and the creation of more youth camps across the world and under the UIAA umbrella.
The Commission recently created an Innovation Panel led by experts from different countries with the focus of establishing the criteria for future UIAA youth events. This includes course certificates, a more developed syllabus and a greater integration with training practices.
Seven camps are already planned for 2023 and UIAA member associations are encouraged to register details of more camps as well as encourage youth experts to join the Commission’s Innovation Panel.
During the GA, members of the working group alongside an athlete representative provided an update on priorities. While working on a long-term basis with the IOC on entry into the Olympic competiton programme remains a core objective, more immediate tasks include: expanding the quality and competitions in the UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour (the 2023 calendar can be viewed here); inviting greater feedback and support from athletes including an athlete representative from each competing federation; improving the quantity of ice on competition structures and in a sustainable way; focusing on an even more professional approach for competitions including support for officials and organisers; making the sport more visually appealing; and developing youth programmes and youth climbing. Best practice case studies will also be created to support the development of the sport and infrastructure in different countries.
Anti-Doping
The Anti-Doping Commission, led by Marija Andjelkovic (Serbia, PSS), was not in attendance at the GA. The Commission continues to provide valuable support to the UIAA particularly in the area of competition sport. The Commission manages in and out of competition testing and ensures full appliance of the WADA Anti-Doping Code throughout the UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour. The Commission also provides a similar level of support to UIAA Unit Member, the International Skyrunning Federation.
Alpine Summer Skills Handbook Produced in collaboration with The Petzl Fondation, the Alpine Summer Skills Handbook was launched in 2011 and has since been translated into 12 languages by UIAA member associations. At the GA, the revised print version (in English) was distributed. The Summer Handbook will be developed in the coming years and broken into a collection of books – including basic knowledge, climbing & mountaineering and canyoning. A winter version of the Handbook, to include chapters on topics such as ice climbing, avalanches, snowshoeing, is being produced with the support of the Alpine Club of Canada and will be presented at the 2023 UIAA GA in Trabzon, Turkey.
All Commission delegation lists following elections held during the GA Management Committee meeting can be found on the Commission pages (linked from the relevant titles above).
Main photo: Commission Presidents (l-r) Peter Farkas (Mountaineering), Carolina Adler (Mountain Protection), Steve Long (Training) and Innovation Panel Lead Jane Carney (Youth) present progress from their respective fields during the 2022 UIAA GA in Banff. Credit: UIAA/Amy Liu
