A GUIDE TO THE 2019-2020 UIAA ICE CLIMBING CONTINENTAL CUPS
Five Continental events across two continents form part of the 2019/20 UIAA Ice Climbing Season, partnered by Outdoor Research. This season, along with four European Cup events, there is an exciting first foray into Asia, as Iran hosts an Asian Cup event, while there is also a new European Cup venue to look forward to in the Czech Republic.
The events afford further opportunities for athletes to compete in between World Cup meets and more importantly provide the next generation of ice climbers with a platform to enter the competition side of the sport. “The 2019/20 season is shaping up to be a classic with a great mix of venues and events, it’s exciting to see our continental cup series expanding into Asia as well as a new European Cup venue in the Czech Republic. We hope to see World Cups in these venues in the future,” explains UIAA Sports Event Coordinator Rob Adie. “Our continued focus on the athletes of our sport and a renewed relationship with the IOC will help us continue to develop the sport on its pathway towards the Winter Olympic Games.” The European season begins in Bern, Switzerland on 23 November and closes in Oulu, Finland on 29 February. There will be an Asian Cup Series event in Tehran, Iran 8-9 February 2020. All events are lead only with the exception of Tehran, which features both lead and speed disciplines.
This page will be updated with results and photos from each event.
Below is a quick guide to specifics about each event.
UIAA Ice Climbing European Cups
Bern, Switzerland: 23 November 2019
This event will be lead only. There is no speed wall. The competition routes take place on the outer wall. Qualifications will take place in the afternoon, and in the evening, starting at 9:00 pm. Following a memorable day of competition, for all spectators there will be free fondue in the evening as well as a party with drinks and music. Event website: http://www.obloc.ch Registration Deadline: 21 November 2019 On-site Registration: 22 November, 2019 On-site Registration Address: O’Bloc Climbing Centre, Bern Details of the Organizer: Tobias Suter / +41 76 448 97 49 Media: Christian Tschudi Online Registration
France’s Louna Ladevant and Switzerland’s Sina Goetz claimed the plaudits in Bern. Ladevant took the first European Cup of the season in the men’s competition defeating local climbers Jonathan Brown and Kevin Huser. Goetz, the only athlete to top the route in the final, finished ahead of France’s Marion Thomas and Switzerland’s Laura von Allmen in the women’s competition.
Brno, Czech Republic: 30 November 2019
This event will be lead only. There is no speed wall. Event website: http://drytoolcup.eu/ Registration Deadline: 27 November 2019 Registration fee after 27.11.2019 is 350, – CZK / 15 EUR. The entry fee is paid in cash at the competitors’ presentation. Entry fee includes refreshments. On-site Registration: 30 November morning 08:00 – 10:00 Details of the Organizer: The event is organised by the Czech Mountaineering Association. The competition is organized in cooperation with HO Lokomotiva Brno and HUDY climbing wall Brno. Address: Brno, Přehradní street. Brno, HO Locomotive Brno – the pillar of the unfinished German highway – “Hitler’s Pillar” at the Brno dam. Online Registration Media Partners: http://www.lezec.cz http://www.horosvaz.cz http://www.james.sk
In the women’s competition, Switzerland’s Sina Goetz again took gold with Marion Thomas of France matching the silver medal she claimed in the season opener in Bern. Goetz’s teammate Vivien Labarile took bronze. Another Swiss athlete triumphed in the men’s competition. Jonathan Brown took gold ahead of Poland’s Jan Mondzelewski and France’a Baptsite Obino. Goetz and Thomas were the only athletes to top in the Final. 63 athletes from 13 countries took part.
Žilina, Slovakia: 7 December 2019
This event will be lead only. There is no speed wall. Event Website: TBC Registration Deadline: 5 December 2019 On-site Registration: 7 December 2019 On-site Registration Address: LA SKALA lezecké centrum, Centrálna 8919/2, 010 07 Žilina Online Registration Details of the Organizer: Adrian Zvara / Tel: +421 905 012 386
For the second week running, Switzerland’s Jonathan Brown and Sina Goetz took the gold medals. Brown climbed highest in the final round to see of the Netherlands’ Dennis Van Hoek and Canada’s David Bouffard. Goetz, sealing a third gold medal of the season, finished ahead of Marianne van der Steen, Netherlands, and Poland’s Olga Kosek. A total of 47 athletes (30 male, 17 female) competed.
Oulu, Finland: 29 February 2020
This event will be lead only. There is no speed wall. The competition will be held at the Oulu Climbing Club, in the city of Oulu, Northern Finland. Oulu has excellent transport links. It has an international airport and there are about 15 flights to and from Helsinki each day. In addition, you can fly direct from Oulu to Riga, Tampere, Rovaniemi and Kemi-Tornio. Oulu railway station is one of the busiest in Finland. Event Website: http://finice2020.com Registration Deadline: 26 February, 2020 at 18:00 CET On-site Registration: 28 February – 18:00-20:00 CET, online pre-registration strongly advised – https://finice2020.eventbrite.com or Online Registration On-site Registration Address: Alakyläntie 1070, Haukipudas Details of the Organizer: Juho Risku / firstname.lastname@example.org /Tel: +358 40 557 4004
Local athlete Tapio Alhonsuo claimed the men’s lead title as the only climber to top in the final. He saw off compatriot Pauli Salminen and Dennis van Hoek of the Netherlands. Russia’s Ekaterina Vlasova won the women’s title with Marianne van der Steen taking silver and Finland’s Enni Bertling bronze. 35 athletes from 11 countries took part.
NEW: Youth Event
FINICE2020 European Cup competition hosts also an Open Youth Competition.
While the European Cup age limit is 16 years, the Open Youth Competition is for climbers from 12 to 15 years (full years at competition date).
The Open Youth Competition is on top rope.
Both competitions, the EC and Youth Open, are held at the same day, 29 February. Sign up by buying a competitor ticket from www.finice2020.com/
FINAL RESULTS 2019-2020 EUROPEAN CUP SEASON:
UIAA Ice Climbing Asian Cup
Tehran, Iran 8-9 February 2020 The UIAA runs the Asian Cup for the first time with an event in Tehran. Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation will host the event. The competition will feature both lead and speed disciplines. Event Website: msfi.ir/HomeEn?Lan=En Registration Deadline: 3 February 2020 On-site Registration: 8 February 2020 On-site Registration Address: Meygun, Tehran https://goo.gl/maps/zvqsQoQnS8t1R5RX9 Details of the Organizer: Mohammad Havaledar / Tel +989127931509 Online Registration
Mohammadreza Safdarian claimed the men’s lead title securing victory for the host country. Roman Shesternin of Kazakhstan won the speed crown with a fastest time of 10.91. The same two countries won the respective women’s titles. Lead was claimed by Iran’s Elnaz Motlagh Maleki and speed by Polina Aubakirova (22.00). Only athletes from Iran (50) and Kazakhstan (4) took part.
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