Transport of Equipment
Mules provide the vast majority of transport needs between Horcones Station and Plaza De Mulas. This journey can be completed by the mules in just a couple of hours. Higher up the mountain it is possible to hire porters who can carry loads of up to 20kg. Fees for this service vary. However you can expect to pay up to $200 for each journey. Budget for around $600 if you want a 20kg load carried from BC to Berlin Hut Camp. It will not be possible to keep up with your porter. So don’t try.
Medical Support
During your climb you will have to undergo two medical checks. These take place at Plaza Confluenzia and BC and must be completed successfully before you are allowed to proceed. Arterial oxygen saturation, heart rate and blood pressure measurements will be taken. In addition, you will also be asked questions about long term medical problems, as well as any altitude related symptoms that you may be suffering from at that time.
For those with a history of high blood pressure it is important to have a plan formulated in case your reading is high. This may involve increasing the dose of your current medication or adding an additional drug to your normal regime. Speak to your doctor about this before you leave home.
Beware! Several individuals have been prevented from climbing the mountain as a result of high blood pressure.
Bring a spare set of medication with you in case of loss or damage.
Duration
The permit issued by the National Park Authority is for 20 days. Most will attempt the mountain in a lot less. This can create a worrying situation where poorly acclimatized climbers are making a summit attempt in less than ideal conditions simply because they are in a hurry to get up and down the peak. This article describes a programme that fits in with WMS recommendations and allows enough time for three potential summit days. The key to climbing Aconcagua is good acclimatization. This cannot be rushed!
Local Languages
Spanish. English is also commonly spoken.
Currency
Argentinean Pesos (ARS)
100 centavos = 1 Peso
US$ are also in common use.
http://coinmill.com/TZS_calculatorTSh.html
Visa Requirements
Click here.
The stealing of foreign passports is becoming an increasingly common occurrence in Argentina.
Vaccinations
A Yellow Fever vaccination certificate is only required by those intending to travel north towards the forested areas bordering Paraguay and Brazil.
Malaria prophylaxis is recommended for anyone travelling in rural areas along the borders of Paraguay and Bolivia.
Like all countries in South America, Argentina has a high prevalence of Hepatitis A. Vaccination is recommended.
Climbers should check that they have completed their full courses of measles/mumps/rubella (MMR), diphtheria/pertussis/tetanus (DPT) and polio vaccinations.
Nearest Hospital
There are a number of public and private hospitals in the vicinity of Mendoza.
Follow the recommendations of the doctors on the mountain.
Evacuation
There are three options for evacuation: by foot, mule or helicopter.
With the permissions of the park authorities and the onsite medical staff a helicopter evacuation can be organised quickly provided weather conditions are suitable for flying. The helicopters are based at Horcones Station and can ascend as high as Camp 2 (5,560m), however weight at this altitude is a real concern and only the pilot and one passenger can be transported at any one time.
From Camp 2, BC can be reached in a matter of seconds and Horcones Station in approximately twelve minutes.
If necessary the medical staff will arrange an ambulance from Horcones Station to either a local clinic or hospitals in Mendoza. An emergency helicopter evacuation is included in the cost of the 20 day climbing permit.
In the case of minor illnesses or injuries, mules are often used to ferry individuals to Horcones Station. Although slower than helicopter, these are a safe and effective means of evacuation.
Above Camp 2, any evacuation relies upon the efforts of the climbers, guides, porters and park authorities.
In 2010 rescue equipment was placed in barrels at three locations on the Normal Route: Camp 2, Refugio Independenzia and the Canaleta. The barrels can be opened by obtaining the padlock code from the park authorities (VHF frequency 142.8KHz). A stretcher is also stored nearby which can be used to carry or slide victims down to Camp 2 or lower. Despite these developments, a rescue of a non-ambulant casualty is fraught with difficulties on Aconcagua. The combination of altitude, uneven terrain and long distances make this a slow and arduous task for rescuers. For the casualty, long periods of time spent in this environment may worsen any illness or injury.
Casualties trapped near the summit may be forced to spend a night outside. Given low temperatures, the risks of hypothermia and frostbite are a reality. This makes the chance of a successful rescue even more remote.
Individuals venturing into this part of the mountain must be able to recognise the point at which they need to turn back. An ambulant casualty has a much greater chance of survival than one who is not.
Climbing Seasons
From mid November to the end of April. During April the park authorities maintain a base at Plaza Confluenzia. The remainder of the mountain is not patrolled during this time.
Communication
At least one VHF radio must be carried by all teams who enter the national park.
Mobile phone reception is only present on Highway 7.
Conditions
Weather conditions in the Andes are prone to change. Nowhere are these seen more dramatically than on Aconcagua.
The approach to BC is often hot and exposed. Daytime temperatures can exceed 30 degrees C. Afternoon rain storms are not uncommon. At higher altitudes, clouds tend to gather predictably throughout the day. Mornings are often bright and clear. Poor forecasts tend to mean that cloud and precipitation arrive quickly during the morning. Following a poor forecast some groups opt to depart early and summit before midday. Whilst this may avoid the worst of the weather, the low temperatures at night (-20 to -30 degrees C or lower) increase the risk of both hypothermia and cold injury. Wind speeds of 100km/hr or greater often accompany a poor forecast.
The weather extremes on Aconcagua mean that high altitude mountaineering equipment is essential. Double boots are necessary in order to obtain a climbing permit from the park authorities. Down clothing is essential. Many climb Aconcagua with equipment suitable for much higher mountains. This is not overkill!
Water bottles are prone to freezing on summit day. Fill up with hot water prior to departure and store drinks in small quantities (less than 1 litre) close to the skin.
Get into the habit of applying a high factor sunblock (50+) regularly. Wear long sleeves, high collars and wide brimmed hats to minimize sun exposure.
Temperature
At BC temperatures can reach 30 degrees C or more. Sunburn and dehydration are real concerns! However higher on the mountain temperatures can fall to below -30 degrees C! The presence of any wind will make it feel much colder. In 2010, five members of a group were evacuated by helicopter from Camp 2 after attempting to summit in poor conditions. All suffered frostbite injuries to fingers and toes despite wearing state-of-the-art equipment. When the weather is bad on Aconcagua very little can protect you! Attempting to summit in bad conditions can have life threatening consequences.
Technical Difficulty
Mainly walking, with a few scrambled steps on summit day. Climbing harness, helmet and ropes are not required. Much of the descent can be done quickly – loose scree on either side of the path makes for rapid progress!
Dangers
Cases of dengue fever have recently been reported in Buenos Aires. According to the UK’s Foreign and Commonwealth Office:
“Travellers should take extra precautions to prevent against mosquito bites. There is no vaccine to protect against dengue fever, and you should therefore use mosquito repellent regularly and cover up with suitable clothing to avoid being bitten.”
Approximately 120,000 adults over the age of 15 are infected with HIV in Argentina. This is approximately 0.5% of the adult population compared to just 0.2% in the UK.
Paper by Jeremy Windsor and George Rodway, members of the UIAA Medical Commission
Acknowledgements: The authors wish to thank Richard Hughes (RH), Mike Spencer (MS), Barry Farbon (BF), David Hillebrandt (DH), Buddha Basnyat (BB), Lucas Dauria (LD), Daniel Alessio (DA) and all those at the guiding company Jagged Globe for their help in the preparation of this article.