The UIAA – International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – is seeking a highly motivated and experienced leader to serve as Chief Executive Officer.
About the UIAA
The UIAA is a global organisation representing close to 100 national climbing and mountaineering associations. We are dedicated to:
– Developing safety standards and certifications for climbing and mountaineering equipment
– Defining and improving skills for safer and more enjoyable mountain activities and sports
– Providing leadership, guidance, and information on a wide range of topics
– Serving as the governing body for Ice Climbing competitions
The Opportunity
The UIAA CEO will lead, coordinate, and manage an international staff team based in Bern, Switzerland, and remotely. You will play a pivotal role in:
– Collaborating with the UIAA President, Executive Committee, Management Board, Commissions, and volunteers
– Identifying, coordinating, and fostering activities that benefit member federations and the mountain sports community
– Facilitating the planning, implementation, and execution of decisions made by UIAA governing bodies
– Building strong relationships with member federations, international organisations, and partners
– Representing the UIAA externally alongside the President and Executive Committee
Your Qualifications – Proven leadership experience in federation, NPO/NGO management
– Strong management, organisational, and coordination skills
– Solid track record in business administration, office management, marketing, and fundraising
– Exceptional communication and interpersonal skills in a diverse international environment
– Proactive and self-motivated team player with a high degree of initiative
– Passion for outdoor sports, ideally with experience in climbing, ski touring, mountaineering, or hiking
– Fluency in English is essential, and proficiency in German is highly recommended
Benefits – A dynamic and rewarding work environment in the heart of Bern, Switzerland – Diverse work content with a broad range of creative opportunities
– Complex and multifaceted responsibilities within the growing and exciting mountain sports arena
– Collaboration with experts, contributors, and partners from all continents
– Rewarding teamwork with a dedicated, agile, and experienced staff
– Fair employment conditions under Swiss law
Start Date Autumn 2024, or as mutually agreed upon
From the reality of climbing Everest in 2024 to the allure of competition ice climbing; from avalanche rescue to adapting to climate change; from a passion for rock climbing to high altitude advice for women; the first series of the UIAA – International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – podcast Mountain Voices has covered a range of important topics.
Contributions have come from 16 guests including a number of leading climbers as well as experts in the field of mountain safety, medicine and sustainability. All six episodes are now available.
Episode #1 – Inside the UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour
Featuring: World Tour ice climbers Gordon McArthur (Canada), Eimir McSwiggan (Ireland) and UIAA sport events manager Rob Adie (UK)
Episode 1 of Mountain Voices transports you to the thrilling setting of the UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour. The annual series pits athletes against challenging, technical routes and sends them up vertical walls of ice at lightning speeds. The venues are scenic but temperatures challenging. What exactly is the World Tour?, what is its appeal?, and will it one day feature in the Olympic Winter Games?
Episode #2 – The Sounds Nobody Wants to Hear / Avalanches
Featuring: IFMGA Guides Marc Beverly (USA) and Zeb Blais (USA)
Episode 2 of Mountain Voices focuses on the subject of avalanches and is inspired by the UIAA Safety Commission’s recent work related to electromagnetic interference in avalanche transceivers. The guests discuss what causes an avalanche, the impact of climate change on avalanches and how our everyday electronic devices from phones to head cameras to GPS watches may interfere with transceivers.
Episode #3 – Everest: It’s Complicated
Featuring: journalist/author Ed Douglas (UK), climber/anthropologist Young Hoon Oh (South Korea) and climber and mountain guide Victor Saunders (UK)
A spotlight on the world’s highest, most iconic and debated mountain. 2024 marks the 100th anniversary of Mallory and Irvine’s fated last attempt to climb Everest. They’ve come to define that heroic post first world war period of exploration in their experimental oxygen sets and (by our standards) primitive clothing. What would define the present age? The age of commercialisation? A trophy achievement for rich individuals with limited climbing experience, blindly sliding up a rope fixed by teams of Sherpas? Is climbing Everest actually an achievement? And what is the current situation for the sherpas who support every climb?
Inspiration comes from the work of the UIAA Medical Commission who have played a leading role in the publication of a number of papers dedicated to women and mountaineering. Topics covered across the papers include altitude sickness, frostbite, nutrition and papers on female-specific issues like menopause. The episode tackles the following questions: Are women more or less prone to cold and altitude related illnesses than men? Do women need to follow different advice? and do women make safer mountaineers?
Episode #5 – Let there be rock / Rock Climbing
Featuring: Climbers Adam Ondra (Czechia) and Beth Rodden (USA)
In exclusive interviews, two legends from the world of rock climbing – Adam Ondra and Beth Rodden – share their passion for the sport, their favourite places to climb and what keeps them motivated. Ondra also discussed his plans for 2024, including an Olympic campaign in Paris, while Rodden discusses the release of her autobiography, A Light through the Cracks.
Episode #6 – Climate Change and Climbing
Featuring: François Masse, Superintendent/Lake Louise, Parks (Canada), climber and Piolet d’Or recipient Graham Zimmerman (New Zealand/USA), Pedro Lacaz Amaral, CEO & Founder of the Gear Tips Recycling Program (Brazil)
A focus on climate change and specifically three fascinating case studies; including the loss of a historic hut in Canada, an award-winning sustainability programme in Brazil and the perspective from a professional climber of how, in the face of climate change, we can adapt to spending time in the mountains.
Mountain Voices is presented by Tarquin Cooper, co-produced by Peter Bourne and edited by Tom Tushaw. Season 2 is scheduled for November-December 2024.
Mountain Voices is also available on most major podcast platforms including Apple Podcasts and Spotify.
For further details please visit the Mountain Voices website page.
Two UIAA member federations recently collaborated on a successful international training course. La Federación de Andinismo de Chile (FEACH/ Chilean Federation of Andinism and Climbing) and La Federación Española de Deportes de Montaña y Escalada (FEDME/ Spanish Federation of Mountain Sports and Climbing) are both UIAA full members and following the recent UIAA Spring Meetings and Mountain Training Course in Bariloche, Argentina, came together following an agreement made at the 2022 UIAA General Assembly in Canada.
The guiding principle of the project was to elevate the standards of mountain rescue training and certification in Chile. FEACH President and UIAA Management Board representative Willy Montenegro explains the importance of such an event:
“It is vital to emphasise that that UIAA only supports this type of activity through its member federations. In Latin America there has been a history of misinterpretation with people trying to take advantage of the name of the UIAA. Hopefully organising this official course will create a precedent for the future.”
The course was attended by 30 participants, including 20 instructors from FEACH and 10 instructors from the Chilean Army Mountain School. These participants brought diverse experiences and expertise, creating a rich learning environment. FEDME representation came from Alberto Ayora (President), Laura Martin (Technical Secretariat ) and Juan Jesús Ibañez (UIAA Management Board). The UIAA Training Commission President Steve Long brought additional expertise and information about UIAA training qualifications.
The training consisted of two main modules: an online module and a field and classroom (in-person) module.
Photo credit: FEACH
Online: Conducted on FEDME’s moodle e-learning platform, this covered subjects common to the Guide/Instructor training plan, such as meteorology, safety, and the organisation of activities.
Field: Held at the Chilean Army Mountain School in Río Blanco, Aconcagua, this module provided practical training on mountaineering dangers, decision-making, avalanche rescue, rope handling, roping, and glacier rescue. Additionally, lectures on civil liability and training methodology complemented the practical sessions.
The project had the following objectives:
Address a longstanding need: FEACH had a pressing desire to reintroduce and standardise the training of mountain rescue instructors under UIAA norms. The strong interest and participation from instructors across the country underscored this need.
Expand the FEACH curriculum: The blend of online theoretical training and hands-on practical workshops ensured a full learning experience, equipping instructors with both knowledge and practical skills to perform with more confidence and information.
International exchange of ideas: The involvement of experienced instructors and experts from FEDME and the UIAA provided valuable insights and methodologies, enhancing the overall quality of training.
Future-focused approach: By focusing on UIAA Skills Certificates, the training aimed to establish a structured pathway for instructors to achieve and maintain high qualifications, ensuring sustained improvement in training standards.
Photo credit: FEACH
Steve Long reflects on the success of the project:
“The training project in Chile is an excellent example of the sort of opportunity that exists for people to share their knowledge with other mountain communities, and help them to avoid the years of (often painful)! trial and error as well as intellectual investment. And of course it’s a rich and enjoyable opportunity for the instructors, which is what we need to communicate – so that it is the instructors and guides who will ask their federations to get more involved in training projects of this nature and to use UIAA Skills Certificates as a first step on the ladder towards qualifications. This will require their federation to get accredited or to revalidate its qualifications so that they can issue the certificates…”
Other Collaborative Efforts Steve Long also acknowledges a similar example of international collaboration in Ladakh, India. “This project involved German and Austrian doctors, an Austrian rescue team, Swiss and Indian sponsors, and UIAA training. Although currently on hold due to financial constraints, the project has seen notable success in continuing rescue training, demonstrating the potential for impactful collaborations.”
And as Willy Montenegro closes: “This process will be carried out, again, between August and October of this year and UIAA member associations in the Central and South American region are invited to participate.” For further details please contact FEACH.
The UIAA Safety Commission recently convened in Padova for their annual spring meeting, hosted by the Club Alpino Italiano (CAI). Over the course of three days, members engaged in a series of meetings and working group sessions addressing various safety topics critical to the climbing and mountaineering community.
On the first day of the event, members went climbing in the magnificent Colli Euganei with CAI instructors. This provided an excellent opportunity for delegates to experience the local climbing culture and discuss safety techniques in a practical setting.
Photo: Stephen Gladieux
Accreditation of a new UIAA laboratory
During the meetings, the commission approved the accreditation of a new UIAA laboratory, Quintin Certification (France). This addition is expected to enhance the UIAA’s ability to certify and test climbing equipment to the highest safety standards.
Significant Improvements in Working Groups
SafeCom working groups reported significant progress in several areas:
New Helmet Testing Method: A new standard is expected to be introduced soon.
Static Ropes and Canyoning Harnesses Aging: Ongoing research to better understand the longevity and safety of these critical pieces of equipment.
UIAA Safety Label and Laboratories Regulation Update: Proposal for a revision of the current regulations to manufacturers.
Corrosion Research: Continued investigation into the effects of corrosion on climbing equipment, with additional funding secured for tests.
Quality Control and Collaboration with Manufacturers: Strengthening the relationship between the UIAA and equipment manufacturers to ensure the highest standards of safety and quality.
Discussion about unusual accidents involving textile or metal parts
2024 UIAA Safety Commission spring meeting (Padova, Italy). Photo: Philippe Quintart
New Projects
Several new projects were launched during the meeting:
Via Ferrata Construction Working Group: Developing guidelines and best practices for constructing via ferratas.
Rope Cutting/Sharp Edge Test Working Group: Defining the best methods for testing rope durability against sharp edges. Daniel Sedláček from the University of Innsbruck presented his research on the “Cut Resistance of Climbing Ropes – A Comparative Analysis of Existing Measurement Methods and a Simulated Accident.” His findings are expected to influence future safety protocols and equipment standards.
Belay Resistor Working Group: Creating a standard for belay resistor devices used in climbing.
UIAA Standard for Ski-Mountaineering Helmets: Proposing a new standard specifically for ski-mountaineering helmets.
Bolting Guidelines/Certification: Initiating discussions on creating certification and guidelines for bolting.
Mass translation of UIAA Safety Label video
First published in 2022, a video explainer about the UIAA Safety Label is now available in nearly 25 languages. Full details of the translations can be found below. UIAA member associations and Safety Label Holders are encouraged to share the video on their platforms. The video is available in the following languages: English, Arabic, Bengali, Croatian, Czech, Dutch, Farsi, French, German, Greek, Italian, Korean, Japanese, Macedonian, Mandarin, Nepalese, Norwegian, Polish, Portuguese, Spanish, Turkish and Ukrainian. Please visit the dedicated YouTube playlist to view the videos.
Members also had the opportunity to visit the CAI testing laboratory. Claudio Melchiorri, former UIAA Mountaineering Commission President, provided a presentation on the history of the CAI Centro Studi Materiali e Tecniche and the research and testing work carried out over the last decades. They attended several equipment tests at the CAI test tower.
The UIAA Safety Commission’s spring meeting in Padua was a productive and collaborative event, reinforcing the commitment to climbing safety and innovation. The initiatives and research presented promise to advance the standards and practices within the climbing community significantly.
Honoring Vittorio Bedogni
A special dinner was held in honor of Vittorio Bedogni, an honorary member of the Safety Commission who sadly passed away a few weeks before the meeting. His contributions to climbing safety were remembered fondly, and his legacy continues to inspire the commission’s work. Please see the recent UIAA and CAI tribute to Vittorio here.
SafeCom in South America
Safety Commission member Frederico Campos (CBME, Brazil) has recently given two presentations about the work of SafeCom in South America.
A few weeks later, in front of 200 people in Rio de Janiero, Brazil, Fred presented a similar topic with a focus on corrosion study and the revision of the UIAA Rock Anchor Standard 123.
We have a long way to go in improving corrosion and rock preservation in Rio de Janeiro and Brazil, but we are on the right track.
One of the principle objectives of the recently launched UIAA database of judgements on climbing and mountaineering accidents is for the service to be regularly updated with new cases from around the world. For further information on the database, created and managed by members of the UIAA Legal Affairs Commission, please click here.
The most recent inclusion concerns a ruling made in a German court following an incident which took place in the Tannheimer Tal valley in Austria.
Nature of the case
A woman faced civil charges under tort law for falling during a hike in the mountains in Austria and, subsequently, hitting another hiker who in turn fell and suffered severe injuries leading to his eventual death. The court found the woman to have acted negligently by not holding onto the available safety rope which was a necessary precaution as the path was narrow and wet and she walked close to the edge of the path in order to protect her daughter who was hiking in front of her. The dead hiker, who was the plaintiff’s husband, was not held partially responsible for not holding onto the rope himself. The court established that given the particular circumstances holding the available safety rope was to be expected of the defendant and that other hikers could rely on such increased safety measures to be taken in that particular situation. If it is not taken and other people are harmed in the process, this harm does not fall into the general alpine risks that hikers have to bear.
What the database covers
The UIAA database charts the legal framework/analysis; the summary of the facts and the summary of arguments of the parties; as well as the reasoning summary of the court.
One of the key components of the UIAA service is feedback and analysis from the Legal Affairs Commission itself. Their summary offers context to the case’s findings and draws from the Commission’s international network of expert lawyers.
The LAC summary on this case was as follows:
This decision surprised the LAC members who thought that putting all the liability on the falling woman was overly strict. It is probable that courts in other countries would decide differently in this matter. However, one needs to keep in mind that the German court stated that it is crucial to look at the particular circumstances of an individual case. In this case, the defendant was held liable because she did not hold onto the safety rope to ensure her own and other people’s safety, despite the increased risk of guarding her daughter and hiking close to the valley side of the path.
However, the judgement is interesting from many perspectives. It is recognizing the UIAA climbing scale; it explains the nature of the doctrine of “doing activity at one’s own risk” even though it eventually does not find it applicable for hiking in this specific case; and it examines the existence of an obligation to hold on to a wire rope while hiking.
After getting dismissed in the Appellate Court, the case was not appealed again at the higher courts. There is also little to no coverage of this particular judgement in legal journals or textbooks, let alone citations of this judgement in other rulings, making the judgement a rather difficult precedent to rely upon.
To access the database please click here. The database also includes an option for cases to be submitted for consideration.
New cases will regularly be highlighted in the monthly UIAA newsletter.
The inaugural International Mountain Sports Training Course was held in Bariloche, Argentina in April and comprised an intensive three-day programme designed to advance the skills and knowledge of mountain sport enthusiasts in various critical areas. The course was organised by the UIAA in close collaboration with host federation FASA (Federación Argentina de Ski Snowboard y Andinismo) and the ISMM (International Society for Mountain Medicine).
The event proved to be a massive success uniting over 100 participants from all over the world. International and local speakers and experts came from a number of fields in mountain rescue and mountain and high-altitude medicine. Course participants included a number of instructors, trainers and young medical personnel from all over Argentina as well as neighbouring South American countries.
“We had an idea of running a course in South America because it hasn’t been done before and it is an opportunity to bring together lots of interesting people with different backgrounds and for the UIAA to share its experience in teaching. It was also important for the UIAA to learn about techniques and methods local to Argentina and South America.” Urs Hefti, UIAA Medical Commission President, and course leader
“The course was a significant success and it was great to see the engagement of those involved. The theory sessions created a number of interesting debates and allowed participants to learn not only about the latest in international mountain medicine research and thinking but the challenges facing those working in the unique context of Argentina and South America. The UIAA is keen on taking this course model to other countries and parts of the world over the coming years.” Peter Muir, UIAA President
“I believe that after finishing this training course there are two main objectives: one is the importance of sharing knowledge and experiences and the second is the responsibility that we have to keep on going and to bring people together who can share the passion and conviction of teaching. Especially as most of the people who are involved are volunteers.” Magdalena Kast, FASA President
The Theory Sessions
On the opening day, sessions focused on risk management, anchor safety evolution and responsible climbing, highlighting the importance of adapting training curricula to specific regional needs and promoting sustainable practices.
Health topics such as water safety and waste management were covered by experts from the UIAA Medical Commission. The risks associated with cold environments were thoroughly addressed, including hypothermia and frostbite, with a focussed stressed on the importance of proper preparation and emergency response.
Field work during the inaugural International Mountain Sports Training Course in Bariloche. Photo credit: BQP Films – FASA/UIAA
Other sessions delved into the topics of altitude sickness, acclimatisation processes, and the physical effects of high-altitude climbing. These discussions were crucial for understanding how to manage the common ailments climbers face, such as AMS, HACE, and HAPE, and emphasised the necessity of gradual acclimatisation.
The UIAA Medical Commission was represented by the following contributors to the course: Urs Hefti (Switzerland), Mijel Lotfi (Argentina), Benoit Champigneulle (France), Kaste Mateikaité-Pipiriené (Lithuania), Eduardo Vinhaes (Brazil), Antonio Nicolau (Mexico), Luigi Festi (Italy), Matthias Hilty (Switzerland) and Juan Manuel Funk (Argentina).
The UIAA Safety Commission was represented by Fred Campos (Brazil), the UIAA Mountain Protection Commission by Juan Ignacio Inza (Argentina), and the UIAA Training Commission by Steve Long (Great Britain).
A big thank you also goes to all other presenters: Marcelo Parada (Argentina), Fran Velazquez (Argentina), Carolina Codo (Argentina), Alberto Ayora (Spain), Esteban Dregerori (Argentina), Marcos Couch (Argentina), Volker Schöffl (Germany), Andrea Castillo (Ecuador), Bruno Negreiros and Maria Fernanda May representing the 2023 UIAA Mountain Protection Award winner Gear Tips (Brazil).
Workshops and Practical Advice
The second day kicked off with specific advice for tackling Aconcagua, including pre-acclimatisation strategies and a comprehensive overview of rescue operations in Argentina. This was particularly valuable for participants aiming to climb in the Argentinian Andes. The UIAA recently published its new recommendation on how to climb Aconcagua, supported by members of its Medical Commission from FASA.
Workshops led by experts provided insights into the various models of mountain rescue in Argentina, including different regional approaches and the integration of modern technology. These sessions were crucial for understanding the complexities and logistical demands of mountain rescue.
Lectures during the inaugural International Mountain Sports Training Course in Bariloche. Photo credit: BQP Films – FASA/UIAA
Practical Workshops
Participants engaged in hands-on workshops covering essential skills such as water treatment, use of portable altitude chambers, anchor safety and corrosion, and emergency stretcher rescue. These practical exercises were designed to enhance on-field capabilities in real mountain environments. These took place in the mountains overlooking Bariloche and specifically in the ski resort of Cerro Catedral.
Participants applied their learned skills in realistic scenarios. This included stretcher transportation, rope work and crevasse rescue, the deployment of rescue dogs, applying basic medical care and evacuation techniques and providing a full cycle of training from theory to practical application.
All participants received a course certificate at the closing ceremony.
Those who participated in the 2024 International Mountain Sports Training Course, whether seasoned medical experts or novice trainers and instructors, were all able to draw a wealth of experience on the course. One of the central themes was the importance of safety, of being prepared, of environmental responsibility and then how to react in the field when things do not go to plan. These learnings are all central to the services provided by the UIAA as the Global Mountain Network.
Further Information
A significant number of the individual presentations given in the theory sessions are available to view on the UIAA YouTube channel (see example below). Please refer to the final event programme to see the full list of presentations.
The course was held shortly after the UIAA Management Board and Commission Presidents’ spring meetings. A report can be found here.
Shortly after the course, two UIAA members; FEDME (Spain) and FEACH (Chile) hosted a collaborative course on mountain rescue and training. A report will follow shortly.
To support its ambition of providing pathways for young climbers to learn more about climbing and mountaineering, the UIAA Youth Commission has put in place a number of camps during the European summer months.
Six camps are currently scheduled. They are:
– The annual International Youth Climbing camp in Ariege, France in July
– Mountaineering Ireland’s Alpine Meet in Soelden, Austria in July
– An International Youth Adventure Camp in Cyprus in July
– A EUSALP summer camp in Chalet de la Haute-Joux, Cerniebaud, France in July
– The Romanian Alpine Club’s camp in Chamonix, France in September
– A beginners drytooling camp in Brno, Czech Republic in October (details coming soon) – Further camps are expected to be added to the calendar
For a full list of dates, registration details and programmes please visit the dedicated UIAA youth event calendar. Earlier this year, the UIAA endorsed the annual ice climbing camp held in the French Alps and run by branches of the national federation FFCAM.
These camps all have common themes; they are organised by UIAA member associations or partners and count members of the UIAA Youth Commission as part of their organisational teams. They are typically open to young climbers from the ages of 16-30 and offer the chance to explore different techniques in climbing, mountaineering, canyoning, hiking, via ferrata and other summer activities. Most importantly they offer youngsters with the chance to connect with climbers from other countries, make last friendships and take home important learnings.
The UIAA Youth and Training Commissions are working on creating a standard syllabus for these camps. This will include offering a personal skills certificate to each participant should they pass the course which will not only offer technical subjects but advice related to mountain safety and sustainability.
For UIAA member associations wishing to promote their youth camps through the UIAA calendar and network please contact Rob Adie, UIAA Office.
The 8th World Congress on Mountain & Wilderness Medicine will be held in Snowbird, Utah (USA) from 28 July – 1 August.
For the first time, the organisers will be bringing together four of the most important international bodies in the fields of rescue, wilderness, and mountain medicine in one place. The WMS (Wilderness Medical Society) and ISMM (International Society for Mountain Medicine), with support from ICAR (International Commission of Alpine Rescue) and the UIAA (International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation), will be gathering both in Snowbird, Utah, and online. This global hybrid conference, held concurrently in-person and online, is the must-attend event of the summer for medical professionals who live life on the wild side. The hosts are expecting more than 500 combined attendees who share a passion for the outdoors and are committed to patient safety in remote environments.
Specifically, the UIAA will present information about Women at Altitude. In 2023, members of the UIAA Medical Commission, together with external experts, played a leading role in the publication of a number of papers dedicated to women and mountaineering. These papers, the result of a number of years of dedicated research and work, have been published in the High Altitude Medicine & Biology journal. They covered topics including nutrition, menopause, HAPE, HACE and frostbite. Further details can be found here.
The topic was also the feature of episode #4 of the UIAA podcast Mountain Voices. Listen here:
For further information and to register for the 8th World Congress on Mountain & Wilderness Medicine please click here.
The current programme for the UIAA presentation can be viewed here.
Anybody interested in receiving a printed copy can do so by filling in the following form. Please note that there is a limited print run and first priority will be given to UIAA member associations and delegates.
The format of the 2023 Annual Report has evolved from recent editions. Most notably a dedicated annex provides information on the UIAA financial report, membership and a directory of key personnel.
Content includes:
Executive Review: Report from UIAA President Peter Muir, calendar of main UIAA stories from 2023, review of the federation’s annual General Assembly
Special Projects: Reports on climate change, fundraising, UIAA Strategic Plan, UIAA Mountain Protection Award, Communication, International Skyrunning Federation and Accident Reporting Working Group
UIAA Commission stories: Top stories from UIAA Commissions; Anti-Doping, Legal, Medical, Mountaineering, Mountain Protection, Safety, Training, Youth as well as from the Ice Climbing World Tour
Continental Reports: Reports from all continents highlighting UIAA member association activities
An archive of UIAA Annual Reports (dating back to 2009) can be found here.
The UIAA Management Board (MB) held its second meeting of 2024 in Bariloche, Argentina. The event was part of a wider climbing and mountaineering meet which saw the UIAA jointly organise the inaugural International Mountain Sports Training Course with host federation FASA (Federación Argentina de Ski Snowboard y Andinismo) and the ISMM (International Society for Mountain Medicine). A report, and extensive video content, from that event will be available shortly.
Below is a short summary of the key decisions and talking points from the UIAA MB meeting and, courtesy of UIAA Commission Presidents, information on the status of core UIAA projects.
Commission Elections
Below is a summary of the MB Commission elections:
Jane Carney (MI, Ireland) elected Vice President, UIAA Youth Commission
Paul Kwakkenbos (NKBV, Netherlands) elected President, UIAA Mountain Protection Commission
Victor Saunders (BMC, UK) elected Vice President, UIAA Mountaineering Commission
A further eight delegates were newly elected as full members of UIAA Commissions. The official lists of UIAA Commission delegates have been updated on the UIAA website.
The UIAA thanks outgoing Mountain Protection Commission President Dr Carolina Adler for her enormous commitment to the UIAA throughout her two terms. Carolina helmed the Commission through a period of significant achievement including the continued growth of the UIAA Mountain Protection Award and the spearheading of the UIAA as a signatory, and a major contributor, to a number of major international declarations and pledges.
UIAA Management Board meeting in Bariloche, Argentina
Strategic Plan: 2025-2028
The current UIAA Strategic Plan (SP) expires in 2024 with working group assigned to produce a comprehensive strategy for the period 2025-2028. Significant analysis has gone into the drafting of the new SP with insights drawn from various tools and databases as well as considered input from stakeholders.
In terms of analysis the following has been produced:
SWOT Analysis: Identifying the UIAA’s strengths, weaknesses, opportunities, and threats, providing a clear picture of the internal and external factors that could impact the federation.
PESTEL Analysis:The political, economic, social, technological, environmental, and legal aspects have been examined to ensure that the strategy aligns with broader external conditions and prevailing trends.
Stakeholder Feedback: A fundamental component of the analysis has been the integration of feedback from various stakeholders notably UIAA member associations and UIAA commissions. This feedback is still welcomed.
Delegates can continue to submit feedback through the following UIAA Strategic Plan 2025-2028: PESTEL & SWOT Analysis form.
One of the chief priorities of the new strategy is to increase the UIAA’s visibility and global reach and to further strengthen its position as a centre of excellence for mountain safety.
The next steps will see the WG develop the draft strategy document for comment and recommendation during the next MB meeting in September and then to be voted on at November’s General Assembly in Malta.
The proposed Strategy is an evolution on the existing one, seeking to build on the achievements and foundations of the past four years as well as integrate learnings and areas of both development and improvement.
Ice Climbing Report & Ice Climbing Governance Group
The Ice Climbing Governing Group provided a detailed report on the 2023-2024 World Tour. The World Tour witnessed eleven events in ten different countries culminating with a UIAA Ice Climbing World Championships and World Cup in Edmonton, Canada.
Focus was also shone on the future of the sport. Here, a new governance model was proposed – chiefly the creation of a self-governed Operating Unit under the UIAA umbrella. This proposal would demand updates to the current UIAA Articles of Association as ultimately the creation of new operational guidelines to guide the future direction of the sport. The feedback from the MB was positive, with some clarifications requested regarding some operational questions and risks.
Further information will be made available ahead of likely formal recommendation to the GA in November.
Workshop activities at the International International Mountain Sports Training Course held near Bariloche
Commission Reports
UIAA Commission Presidents each presented information on the progress of ongoing projects. A brief summary can be found here:
Anti-Doping Marija Andjelkovic (PSS, Serbia)
The UIAA Anti-Doping Commission again provided close support to the UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour with both in and out of competition testing as well as educational workshops for climbers including one dedicated to youth.
A significant milestone for the Commission is ensuring that the UIAA is compliant with the latest WADA (World Anti-Doping Agency) Code. This process should be completed shortly.
Legal Klara Dvorakova (CMLA, Czech Republic)
The UIAA Legal Affairs Commission recently completed a major project, the launch of its international database of climbing and mountaineering case laws. The database includes judgments from courts, tribunals, and authoritative bodies. Users can search for cases based on the key activity, e.g. winter hiking, outdoor climbing, indoor climbing, the accident location, or type of a proceeding, e.g. civil, criminal, or disciplinary. Each entry includes a comment from the UIAA Legal Affairs Commission and links to the original case-law if available. The intention is for the database to serve as a live tool with regular updates. Full details here.
The Legal Affairs Commission encourages UIAA members to help contribute to this important library. Specific case studies, notably the important takeaways, will also be highlighted in future UIAA newsletters.
Medical Urs Hefti (SAC, Switzerland)
The Medical Commission played an instrumental role in the organisation of the International Mountain Sports Training Course with several of its members involved in the running of the event and giving presentations. A full report will be published shortly.
Towards the close of 2023, the MedCom members contributed to the publication of several new papers dedicated to women at altitude. Further details can be found here. A summary of these papers, intended for the general public rather than for medical experts, will be released shortly. This topic was also the subject of the most recent episode of the UIAA podcast, Mountain Voices.
Another MedCom working group has been particularly active in producing guides to some of the world’s most iconic peaks. Papers published to date include those on Denali, Fuji, Lenin Peak,Kosciuszko and Aconcagua. The next scheduled paper is on Everest.
Mountaineering Greg Moseley (MCSA, South Africa)
MountCom continues to work on a new paper inspired by the 2002 Tyrol Declaration. An abridged version of the document, in a poster form, was presented at the UIAA General Assembly in October. MountCom hopes to finalise the paper over the coming months. The final publication will address topics such as the UIAA’s stance on ethics in mountaineering.
The Commission has also set up a number of working groups to either revive or launch projects related to the following topics: access, hiking trails and rock climbing.
The subjects of hiking and rock climbing were discussed in detail during the MB meeting, with the future UIAA strategy likely to lean more on the promotion of these activities which are often an entry point for people into climbing and mountaineering.
Members of MountCom featured on a recent UIAA podcast episode dedicated to Everest and the 2024 season.
Mountain Protection Carolina Adler (NZAC, New Zealand)
As referenced above, the Commission is now under the leadership of Paul Kwakkenbos following Carolina Adler’s end of second term.
Among the projects expected to be delivered over the coming months are the new UIAA Social & Environmental Sustainability Guidelines. These guidelines were first released in 2002 to mark the inaugural International Year of Mountains. A decision to revise the document was made in 2022 to coincide with the International Year of Sustainable Mountain Development and the 2023-2027 UN Five Years of Action for the Development of Mountain Regions. The new document raises a number of topics and addresses the impact of mountaineering as an activity. Sections are dedicated to the subjects of climate change action and adaptation, waste and pollution, biodiversity and social impacts. As well as addressing issues, the document also seeks to provide guidance, awareness, education and collaboration. For example, it offers advice on how the climbing community can take positive action and how climbers and mountaineers can continue about their activities in a more sustainable and less impactful way and engage in affecting positive change.
The Commission has also published the UIAA Carbon Footprint Reports for 2021 and 2022 with the 2023 analysis imminent.
Safety is another Commission producing a valuable amount of work. Its position statement recommendation on avalanche transceivers, published in December 2023, has been well received internationally.
SafeCom is working on a number of new or revised standards including one dedicated to helmet rim impact, which is penned for release by end of the year. A working group has been assigned a project on highly static ropes to complement the existing standard on dynamic ropes. Additionally, research is being committed into the following subjects – via Ferratas, ageing of textile of various materials subjected to humidity, UVs and thermal cycles.
The Commission’s important research into the welding of top anchors continues. This process has included a direct collaboration between the UIAA and manufacturers in terms of enhancing production and quality processes with the aim of reducing the number of recorded voids and cracks. Following the release of its revised Rock Anchor Standard in 2020, the UIAA is happy to see the continued increase in new certificate rock anchors on the market.
The UIAA continues to update its map of known anchor corrosions and is very grateful to climbers who have submitted case studies for the project. The general public can contribute to this research by completing the following online form.
Significant work is being done to improve the outreach of the Safety Label. The UIAA has met with a number of Safety Label Holders and retailers throughout 2024 to develop projects of mutual interest including the promotion of the safety label. Meanwhile, the video guide to the UIAA Safety Label has recently been translated into over 20 languages. Further details here.
The UIAA Safety Commission held its first in-person annual meeting in Padova, Italy in early May. A full report will be published shortly.
Training Steve Long (BMC, UK)
The new UIAA Training database is live and ready for member associations to use and apply for qualifications to renew qualifications. The database will shortly be synced with a map on the UIAA website which will publicly show the live accreditations. An explainer about the UIAA database can be viewed here:
The revised English version of the UIAA Alpine Handbook is set for a print run before the GA. It will include a number of new visuals. A winter edition is in progress. The UIAA is looking at ways of making the books available to a wider audience through an app or equivalent.
Following the MB meeting, the UIAA Training Commission – led by Steve Long – supported a collaborative course involving two UIAA member associations – FEACH (Chile) and FEDME (Spain). Further details to follow.
Youth Pavlos Georgiades (CMCOF, Cyprus)
Details of four youth camps endorsed by the UIAA Youth Commission can be found on the UIAA website calendar. Application information and course programmes are included. The Commission continues to look at integrating UIAA training certificates and modules to its causes. Future goals including increasing the number of youth camps, and increasing the number outside of Europe.
The next UIAA MB meeting will be held online on Saturday 7 September.
UIAA member associations will be able to receive a further update – and pose questions – during a special online UIAA member federation update to be held on Saturday 25 May from 13:00-14:30.
