Big strides for Georgian ski mountaineering on Mt Kazbek

The UIAA Youth Commission is supporting the Georgian mountaineering federation in its efforts to set up a youth programme. At the request of the Mountaineering and Climbing Association of Georgia (MCAG) and its President Zurab Kutchava, the Youth Commission sent Swiss mountain guide Daniel Oberli on an exploratory mission to look at what is needed in terms of technical skills and physical standards, areas where training is needed and how to build a syllabus for youth...

Ice thrills competitors of first-ever youth event

President of the UIAA Youth Commission, Anne Arran, interviewed three key people involved with the first ever UIAA European Youth Ice Climbing Championship which took place from January 16 to 17 in Saas Grund, Switzerland. She spoke to the winner of the women’s competition, a former World Cup star coaching at the event and a route setter. Liubov Mikryukova, age 16, women’s winner Liubov, aged 16, grew up in chilly Kirov, Russia and started rock climbing six years...

Anti-Doping talks held on Ice Climbing sidelines

The UIAA Anti-Doping Commission has held a key meeting on the sidelines of the Ice Climbing World Cup event in Saas Fee, Switzerland on January 24. The commission is responsible for developing and maintaining the UIAA’s doping control programme including in and out of competition testing, result-based testing, random testing and targeted testing. The body also ensures compliance with the WADA code and educating and informing stakeholders on anti-doping policy. The commission’s support for Ice Climbing - the UIAA’s sole competition...

Letter from Ang Tshering Sherpa, president Nepal Mountaineering Association

Ang Tshering Sherpa's letter from Nepal: It has been a very busy few months for me and my family. In a recent development on the dispute of Nepal Mountaineering Association, the Government of Nepal has posted me once again as the President of NMA until such time that another election can be held and the position passed on. The Ministers' Cabinet of the Government of Nepal held a special meeting at Kala Patthar Plateau (5,542 m)...

Advice paper issued on hypoxia

The UIAA Medical Commission has published a new paper that offers health and safety advice on hypoxia. More and more people – no longer just climbers at high altitude - can be affected by hypoxia, a condition in which the body is deprived of an adequate supply of oxygen. For example, hypoxia is now also being used for fire prevention in storage areas, for altitude training in sport and for many other purposes, the Medical Commission says....

Officially published – Mountain Ethics Declaration

The UIAA has published its Mountain Ethics Declaration on December 11 to mark International Mountain Day. The Declaration spells out ethics of sportsmanship, respect for cultures and care for the environment, and it was approved at the UIAA General Assembly on October 10. It includes 12 maxims, addressing issues such as the responsibility to assist others in need, the factual reporting of ascents and the use of supplementary oxygen. “It is most appropriate that this declaration be announced on...

MedCom to discuss Everest deaths, mountain medicine

The UIAA Medical Commission will tackle an array of topics at its meeting in Nepal from November 15 to 17. The talks will range from a review of deaths on Everest climbs to a discussion of care for altitude sickness. The commission, a panel of doctors from around the globe who specialise in mountain medicine, participates in research on and promotes education about health-related issues in mountaineering. Dr. Buddha Basnyat, president of the UIAA Medical Commission, says a...

Supplemental oxygen to be taken off prohibited list

The use of supplemental oxygen will be removed from the WADA (World Anti-Doping Agency) list of prohibited methods as of January 1, 2010. It was also made known at a high-level meeting in Madrid in mid-September that the UIAA is fully compliant with WADA rules. The draft of WADA’s 2010 Prohibited List was discussed at the meeting of CAHAMA, the Ad hoc European Committee for the World Anti-Doping Agency. The WADA Executive approved the list at a meeting...

Japanese climbers denied access to Bugyai Kangri in Tibet

Japanese climbing team says it was turned away by locals from attempting a first ascent of Bugyai Kangri (6,328m) despite having received official permission from the Chinese authorities. The climbers, through the UIAA, want to raise awareness of permit issues in the sensitive border area in Tibet for other alpinists considering visiting the region. According to Takao Ohe, lead climber of the five-member group from Tohoku University Alpine Club, the team had received formal approval for the...