Integration in the Mountains

The DAV (Deutscher Alpenverein – German Alpine Club) recently launched A.L.M (Alpen. Leben. Menschen – Alps. Life. People) – a project designed to support the integration of refugees in the Bavarian Alpine region and in the foothills of the Alps. The project was created in conjunction with the Malteser Hilfsdienst (a Catholic aid agency) and with the financial support of the Deutsche Bundesstiftung Umwelt (German Federal Foundation for the Environment). “The A.L.M project is intended to...

UIAA – NEWSLETTER, APRIL-MAY 2017. NOW PUBLISHED

The April 2017 UIAA Newsletter is now available. The outcome of discussions held at a number of recent UIAA Commission meetings have enabled the UIAA to advance on a number of subjects. Over the past month the UIAA Medical, Ice Climbing, Youth and Mountaineering Commissions have all convened. Applications continue to roll in for the 2017 UIAA Mountain Protection Award, a platform UIAA member federations can use to promote sustainable mountain-based projects in their countries. The UIAA Safety...

Ueli Steck. One of the greats

Ueli Steck, one of the world’s most revered and respected climbers and mountaineers, died in an accident in Nepal on Sunday 30 April. A brief communication on Steck’s own website reported: “Ueli Steck was killed while trying to climb Mount Everest and the Lhotse. His family has learned of his death today (30 April). The exact circumstances are currently unknown. The family is infinitely sad and asks the media builders to refrain from speculation about the circumstances...

MOUNTAIN MEDICINE: DISCUSSIONS AND DEVELOPMENTS

The UIAA Medical Commission held its annual Commission Meeting on 27 March in Kathmandu, Nepal, supported by UIAA member federation, the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA). The meeting attendees comprised: George Rodway [USA, Commission president], David Hillebrandt [UK, vice-president], Buddha Basnyat [Nepal, host], Alireza Behpour [Iran], Andrew Cumpstey [UK, observer], Enrico Donegani [Italy], John McCall [Canada], Rianne van der Spek [Netherlands, minutes], Shigeru Masuyama [Japan], Shih-Hao Wang [Taiwan], Sundeep Dhillon [UK]. Among the main points discussed were: • Situation...

UIAA Mountaineering Commission meets in Keswick

The UIAA Mountaineering Commission met in Keswick, UK, in April 2017. The meeting, which was hosted by the British Mountaineering Council (BMC), was attended by 16 delegates from 14 different countries. Nick Colton (Deputy CEO of the BMC) welcomed everyone and gave a fascinating presentation about climbing and mountaineering, highlighting how ethics have changed and developed in British and alpine climbing in the past 50 years. WELCOME BY THE NEW MOUNTCOM PRESIDENT [caption id="attachment_67346" align="alignleft" width="300"] UIAA...

Establishing a Clear Pathway

The Baroque city of Turin – the first capital of Italy – provided the setting for a recent meeting of the UIAA Youth Commission (YC). The meeting marked the start of a new era for the Commission for whom Mark Dennison (BMC, UK) was recently elected as President. Dennison is a keen rock climber and has spent the past 15 years working as an outdoor instructor. He has been part of the Commission for four years...

EMERGING TALENT SCALES NEW HEIGHTS

As the most recent UIAA Ice Climbing season confirmed, Canadian Noah Beek is one of the emerging talents in the world of ice climbing. The 20-year old competed in all rounds of the 2017 season – including the UIAA Ice Climbing World Youth Championships. Beek finished the World Tour ninth overall in the lead discipline, best placing with a fourth position in Beijing, before claiming a silver medal in the Youth Worlds. Impressive figures for...

THE IMPORTANCE OF NUTRITION IN MOUNTAINEERING

“The importance of adequate caloric and fluid intake must be rated as least as highly as that of oxygen” Dr Griffith Pugh Over the past two decades, the UIAA MedCom has published a vast library of Medical Advice papers on a variety of mountain-based subjects. These papers are produced by experts in their field and relevant for a wide range of people – including doctors, trekking and expedition operators and climbers and mountaineers of all backgrounds and experiences....

Discussing all things ice climbing

The UIAA Ice Climbing Commission and UIAA Office representatives met in Paris on the weekend of 8-9 April for their annual meeting. The topics covered during the two-day meeting included: A review of the 2017 season: event debriefs, judging & route-setting reports, athletes’ reports, LOCs reports. Updates on the road to the 2022 Winter Olympics: The Pyeongchang 2018 location (where ice climbing will feature as a cultural event in the Olympic Park) has been defined and...

UIAA Request for Failed Climbing Top Anchors

The article below was also published on UKclimbing.com on 6 April, 2017. The UIAA is grateful to UKclimbing.com for its support in making climber safer. The UIAA Safety Commission is looking for samples of failed climbing top anchors to assist in several related matters with the UIAA Climbing Anchor Standard UIAA 123: (1) Top anchor inclusion in standard: we are looking to revise this standard to make specific provision for top anchors, including how to test them,...