Access situation on Everest
The expeditions planning to ascent Everest this spring are facing problems. Permits are currently not being issued either by Chinese or Nepali authorities.
The UIAA Expedition Commission is using their contacts in Tibet and Nepal to stay updated and we will pass on any information we can to you. However, there is much confusion and contradictory messages from the authorities.
The situation at the time of writing is this:
No mountaineering expeditions will be allowed in Tibet (including Mount Everest, Cho Oyu, Shisa Pangma) this spring.
Everest and Lhotse expeditions from the Nepali side will not be allowed until after May 10th. It is unclear how the situation will be after that date.
Communications systems, such as satellite phones, radios, cameras, lap top computer and other electrical devises will be strictly forbidden in the Everest area until May 10th.
On the 10th March, the Chinese authorities decided to close off Everest for expeditions from the Tibet side. Later they requested Nepali authorities to not allow any expeditions on their side of Everest until May 10th.
On the Nepali side, no decision has been taken on how the situation will be after May 10th. Up to now no permits have been issued for Everest and Lhotse for this season. Because of the upcoming election in Nepal, it is difficult to get hold of government officials. Several expedition teams have arrived in Kathmandu, but are not able to move on, because they cannot get their equipment through customs without a climbing permit. Because of the current situation of unrest in Tibet, all visas for entry into this area have been cancelled.
The Nepal Mountaineering Association and other related associations are trying to solve the problem, and we will try to keep you updated of the situation.