How to extricate yourself from a crevasse

If the fallen climber isn’t injured and knows how to ascend a rope, crevasse self-rescue will be his/her quickest escape. Precautions Plan for self-rescue before a fall: “If I fall, brace yourselves as much as possible, install an anchor and keep the rope tight. I will climb back out.” Make sure the climbers up on the surface have braced themselves properly. Wait until they’ve installed an anchor before you ascend the rope. Required equipment Two ascending devices. It’s much easier...

THE GLOBAL CLIMBING SITUATION: WHERE CAN I CLIMB?

Throughout the past three and a half months, the UIAA has provided its members and the wider climbing and mountaineering community with updates concerning the impact and spread of Covid-19. The UIAA Covid-19 portal currently provides over 20 updates from the UIAA related to Commission and projects activities, about the work of its dedicated Covid-19 Crisis Consultation (CCC) Taskforce as well as some 70 updates from members in 40 different countries. Recent support has included general guidance...

COVID-19: A COMPLEX PICTURE FOR THE GLOBAL CLIMBING COMMUNITY

The UIAA Covid-19 Crisis Consultation (CCC) Taskforce held its third online meeting on 18 June. Representatives from nine different countries and three continents participated. Subjects discussed included UIAA advice on climbing post lockdown, climber safety, the concerns of UIAA members and a focus on countries either still in lockdown or where infection rates are on the rise. Overview – Global Situation From a European perspective, the CCC Taskforce notes that there is an increasing feeling of “situation...

An update from South Africa

The following update is courtesy of Greg Moseley, President of the Mountain Club of South Africa and UIAA Management Committee member. We live in difficult times. However, the Mountain Club of South Africa has been attempting to do what is possible under the circumstances. Currently, we are delighted to be able to report that there has been an easing of restrictions under the new Covid-19 Level 3 regulations (South African version) promulgated on 1 June. Some mountain areas,...

UIAA SAFETY COMMISSION REPORTS ON PROGRESS OF WIDE-RANGING WORKING GROUPS

Following an internal Commission session in May, the UIAA Safety Commission (SafeCom) held its traditional two-day annual meeting on 8-9 June. The online (plenary) sessions welcomed nearly 50 participants including many industry leaders – representatives from major climbing gear and equipment manufacturers (UIAA Safety Label holders) and accredited UIAA testing laboratories as well as delegates from the UIAA Executive Board, the International Slackline Association (ISA) and the International Commission for Alpine Rescue (ICAR). Events were well...

2020 UIAA GENERAL ASSEMBLY TO BE HELD ONLINE

On Friday 5 June, the UIAA Management Committee (MC) held its second online meeting in the space of five weeks. Its most significant outcome was the decision to host this year’s UIAA General Assembly online. Owing to the Covid-19 pandemic, the GA, originally scheduled to take place on 24 October in Antalya, Turkey (and organised by the Turkish Mountaineering Federation), will now be held virtually. Voting procedures will also be conducted online. “For the first time in...

IMPACT OF COVID-19, PARTNERSHPS AND GLOBAL GUIDELINES LEAD AGENDA OF LATEST MPC MEET

The UIAA Mountain Protection Commission (MPC) hosted its annual meeting on Friday 29 May. As has become the norm during Covid-19, the meeting took place online. Nine members of the MPC from as many countries and five continents participated supported by UIAA Executive Board members Lode Beckers (also a Commission member) and Hélène Denis as well as Office support Carol Kahoun. Dr Carolina Adler (New Zealand, NZAC), newly re-elected Commission President, led the meeting. The Mountain...

FRANCE: REOPENING OF MOUNTAIN HUTS

The following update (in French) published on 2 June comes from UIAA member association, FFCAM - Fédération française des clubs alpins et de montagne (FFCAM). It details the decision by French authorities to allow mountain huts to reopen. FFCAM's own huts will open gradually with prior reservation mandatory. A translated extract from the communication reads: A gradual reopening FFCAM will gradually reopen its huts with capacities initially reduced compared to their usual numbers. Capacities will then gradually...

EASING OF COVID-19 MEASURES. FURTHER UPDATES FROM UIAA MEMBERS

On 28 May, the UIAA created an online form for members to provide updates regarding the Covid-19 situation in their countries and regions. The tool also offered the opportunity for members to address specific topics and concerns. Members from 37 countries have already contributed to the UIAA Covid-19 portal with updates during the past three months. The below is a summary of recent updates provided by ten UIAA member associations. Specific points raised by members for...