Winter ascent on Broad Peak by Polish expedition


An attempt to make the first successful winter ascent of Broad Peak (8047 metres) led by well-known Polish climber Krzysztof Wielicki and organized by the Polish Mountaineering Association (PZA) is underway.

The expedition by the UIAA federation member is part of a series of Polish winter mountaineering expeditions called Polish Winter Himalayan Mountaineering 2010 – 2015 under the patronage of Mr. Bronislaw Komorowski, president of Poland.

According to details put out by the expedition, the team will use classic techniques, spreading about 2,500 metres of ropes and establish 4 camps on the mountain which is part of the Gasherbrum massif in the Gilgit–Baltistan region of Pakistan near China. It is situated close to  K2, the world’s second highest mountain.


Members don’t plan to use any oxygen equipment.

The expedition includes Polish climbers Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Tomasz Kowalski and Artur Małek. They will be assisted by prominent Pakistani mountaineer Shaheen Baig who has climbed K2 and comes from Shimshal, Hunza in Gilgit-Baltistan.

Winter mountaineering in the area involves severe cold with temperatures dropping to minus 70 degrees Celcius and strong winds that gust up to 100 kms per hour, said Lt. Col (Retd) Manzoor Hussain, president of the Alpine Club of Pakistan where Baig is a member.

Hussain said five expeditions are also attempting winter ascents of Nanga Parbat (8,125 metres) this winter.

The planned route for Broad Peak can be found here.  You can also follow expedition updates here.