The 2020 UIAA General Assembly (GA) was held on 23-24 October. Owing to the Covid-19 pandemic, the annual meeting took place online for the first time in the federation’s 88-year history. A record number of delegates – 130 representatives from 68 countries – joined on Zoom and a further 250 member federation representatives and partners followed an accompanying livestream on YouTube.
Presidential Election
Peter Muir from the Alpine Club of Canada (ACC) was elected as the new President of the UIAA. Muir becomes the UIAA’s 14th President (including two Acting Presidents) and the second from Canada.
Muir succeeds Frits Vrijlandt, Royal Dutch Climbing and Mountaineering Club (NKBV), Netherlands as UIAA President. Vrijlandt’s second and, as defined in the UIAA Articles of Association, final four-year term came to an end at this year’s General Assembly.
In his brief opening address, Muir said: “Thank you all for the faith you have expressed in me. I will work hard to meet a challenge that I take on with great enthusiasm. My message to all candidates and volunteers is that offering your time is appreciated and the most valuable thing you can give. Thank you to Frits for all of your contributions and dedication as UIAA President.” Muir also paid tribute to the campaigns of Amit Chowdhury, now an EB member, and Peter Farkas, UIAA Mountaineering Commission President, who both ran for Presidency.
Frits Vrijlandt on his final GA as UIAA President: “It is time for me to reflect on the past eight years. I am proud of all the work we have undertaken together and extremely proud to have been part of the UIAA family. There have been many highlights including welcoming new and returning members, witnessing the work of our Commissions and Continental bodies. Other achievements include the launch of the Mountain Protection Award, the Rock Climbing Festival Award, the Respect the Mountains Movement, the growth of competition ice climbing and the tremendous support we have received from sponsors and partners such as The North Face Korea, Outdoor Research, The Petzl Foundation and Bally. There have been some regrets as well such as the departure of CAI and for not succeeding yet in ice climbing becoming part of the official Olympic competition programme.”
Executive Board
Muir will lead an Executive Board comprised of:
Zoljargal Banzragch, Mongolia (elected in 2019), Mongolian National Climbing Federation
Lode Beckers, Belgium (elected in 2019), Climbing & Mountaineering Belgium Amit Chowdhury, India (elected in 2020), Indian Mountaineering Foundation
Mahmood Hashemi, Iran (elected in 2019), I.R. Iran Mountaineering & Sport Climbing Federation Françoise Jaquet, Switzerland (elected in 2020), Swiss Alpine Club Martin Lascano, Argentina (elected in 2020), Federaciòn Argentina de Ski y Andinismo
Board positions will be discussed and confirmed in due course.
Management Committee
The following nominees were elected to the UIAA Management Committee by the General Assembly:
Anne Arran (re-election), United Kingdom, British Mountaineering Council, Continental Representation: Europe
Kul Bahadur Gurung, Nepal, Nepal Mountaineering Association, General Representation
Steve Long, United Kingdom, British Mountaineering Council, General Representation
Jean Miczka, France, Fédération française des clubs alpins et de montagne, Largest Federation Representation
Greg Moseley (re-election), South Africa, Mountain Club of South Africa, Continental Representation: Africa
Phil Powers, United States, American Alpine Club, Continental Representation: North America
Stein Tronstad, Norway, The Norwegian Climbing Federation, General Representation
They join the existing MC members:
Simon Alden, Malta, Malta Climbing Club, General Representation
Joachim Driessen, Netherlands, Royal Dutch Climbing and Mountaineering Club, General Representation
Stuart Gray, New Zealand, New Zealand Alpine Club, Continental Representation: Oceania
Josef Klenner, Germany, German Alpine Club, Largest Federation Representation
Christine Pae, Korea, Korean Alpine Federation, Continental Representation: Asia
The UIAA thanks Frits Vrijlandt and outgoing Executive Board members Helène Denis (FFCAM, France) and Yongfeng Wang (CMA, China) as well as Management Committee members Georges Elzière (FFCAM, France), Juan Garrigos i Toro (FEDME, Spain) and Reza Zarei (IMSCF, Iran) for their longstanding commitment and dedication to the UIAA.
The backgrounds, skills and talents of new EB and MC members are diverse. They include those who have served in key roles such as president and board members of major national climbing federations. The range of professional backgrounds includes natural and political science, law, expedition and tourism management, international mountain guidance and training, polar research as well as civil and aeronautical engineering. The UIAA will undoubtedly benefit across all of its activities from the enthusiasm and expertise of its new EB and MC members – the diversity of personnel offers the UIAA greater universality, better representation and increased resources when facing the many and varied aspects of the federation.
EB and MC members now represent 18 countries from all continents reinforcing the UIAA’s role as The Global Mountain Network.
Member Association Elections
The UIAA General Assembly elected four new member associations during the General Assembly. They are:
Full Members
Mexico: Federación Mexicana de Deportes de Montaña y Escalada A.C Saudi Arabia: Saudi Climbing & Hiking Federation
Associate Member Azerbaijan: Mountain Club of Western Caspian University, Azerbaijan
Observer Member International: International Commission for Alpine Rescue (ICAR)
Changes of Membership Costarican Federation of Mountain Sports (FECODEM) is now elected as a Full Member, formerly an Observer Member National Adventure Association of Malaysia is now elected as a Full Member, formerly an Observer Member
Profiles of all new member associations will be published over the coming months.
Honorary Membership
Following a nomination put forward by the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) and presented by their President Lynn Robinson, legendary mountaineer Doug Scott, a former member of the UIAA Management Committee (2008-2012) and various UIAA Commissions (Mountaineering Commission 2011-2020 and the Traditional Values Working Group) was awarded Honorary Membership of the UIAA.
A champion for the traditional values of mountaineering, Doug Scott’s achievements are significant. The first Briton, alongside his friend Dougal Haston, to conquer Everest and on a previously unclimbed route up the South West Face, his list of climbing feats are remarkable and will be explored in greater detail in an upcoming profile.
Doug has committed himself to a number of projects including writing several memoirs and through his stewardship of Community Action Nepal (CAN), a charity dedicated to causes in the country where Doug achieved many of his feats. CAN won the UIAA Mountain Protection Award in 2018. He also spearheaded the UIAA paper ‘Preservation of Natural Rock for Adventure Climbing’, a cause he passionately campaigns. Doug Scott is also an honorary member of The Alpine Club and the American Alpine Club and Patron of the British Mountaineering Council.
Doug Scott was delighted with the recognition from the UIAA family: “This has been an unexpected honour which I am very proud to receive. I join a long list of names over the years for whom I have the greatest respect.”
Future General Assemblies
The location of future UIAA GAs is dependent on the possibility of international travel and the development of the Covid-19 pandemic. The GA voted on the locations of the next three meetings:
2021 Trabzon, Turkey on 23 October 2022 Banff, Canada, on 29 October 2023 Malta, date TBC
Strategic Plan UIAA 2021-2024
Presented by Lode Beckers, UIAA General Secretary, the GA voted to approve the process for the UIAA Strategic Plan 2021-2024. Beckers paid tribute to the valuable work conducted by various groups over recent years and explained that the Strategic Plan 2021-2024 will be a working process for the coming years.
It will be guided by the profile approved at the UIAA GA in 2019:
“The UIAA is the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation. As the leading global network, we promote climbing and mountaineering and advocate for access to climbing areas and mountain ranges. While looking to our future, we value our heritage and care for the mountains, their fragile ecosystems, vulnerable communities, and cultures. We serve the best interests of our member federations and of our worldwide community. For the Climbers. For the Mountains. For the World.”
The mission will be carried out through strategic priorities are defined as: 1. Provide guidance on critical and emerging mountaineering issues 2. Setting and maintaining high standards 3. Assisting and supporting national federations and their members
Beckers called for a ‘broadly based ownership of the implementation process’ from the new President through to member federations, Commissions, the EB, the MC and partners.
In charting the progress of the Strategic Plan 2021-2024, the UIAA will communicate regularly on the process.
Presentations and Panels
Alongside the formal part of the GA, a series of presentations and moderated panel discussions took place, designed both to provide members with information on UIAA activities, to discuss sharing of best practices and to debate some of the topical mountaineering questions of the day.
Moderated Panel Discussions
Panel discussions were moderated by Tarquin Cooper, UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour commentator.
The first panel discussion focused on working groups and Commission projects and tackled access, mountaineering and training, rock climbing, youth as well as an update from The Petzl Foundation on the progress of the UIAA Summer Skills Handbook translations.
Mountaineering: Peter Farkas (MHSSz, Hungary), MountCom President, highlighted the significant work undertaken in collating accident statistics, the result of nearly five years of research. MountCom is now working on delivering this information in an publishable format. The data will prove valuable in supporting the ‘safe adventure’ focus of the Commission.
Training: Steve Long (BMC, UK), Training Panel President, presented the UIAA’s valuable work in training and the framework it offers federations in delivering their own programmes. Long highlighted the close collaboration with UIAA observer members, IFMGA (International Federation of Mountain Guide Associations) and UMILA (Union of International Mountain Leader Associations) who work directly with guide and leader professionals. Vast experience and expertise is the fruit of this collaboration and now at the benefit of all members. The pending Skills Certificate project is another exciting arm of the Training Panel. It will provide individuals looking to climb safely, from hiking to ski mountaineering to adventure climbing, with the ability to find if an instructor is accredited at international level through their federation. This will have a benefit for all stakeholders – trainers, clubs, federations and eventually through this greater demand for membership, the UIAA.
UIAA Alpine Summer Skills Handbook: Stéphane Lozac’hmeur, The Petzl Foundation Project Manager, provided an overview of the progress made in their work with UIAA members of translations of the Alpine Summer Skills Handbook. Details, as well as work on new chapters, are provided in the UIAA Guide to the General Assembly. Lozac’hmeur emphasised that the Handbook is not a ‘for profit’ publication rather designed to help improve the core skills of climbers and mountain goers.
Access: Like Training, the Access Working Group forms part of the Mountaineering Commission. Its President Juan Jesus Ibanez Martin (FEDME, Spain) explained that the Access WG is working on creating an information library where documentation related to free and responsible access protocols can be shared. This will be of significant benefit to smaller UIAA members who may be dealing with access issues for the first time. Ibanez Martin also called for closer collaboration between the UIAA Access WG and Access representatives within UIAA member associations. He also addressed the situation mountain hut owners have faced throughout the Covid-19 pandemic particularly in Europe where the loss of the spring season was followed by complex summer months which saw a reduction in hut spaces and implementation of social distancing. One of the more positive aspects of recent months has been the recognition by some governmental authorities to those carrying a licence from a mountaineering club. During lockdown, there have been examples of authorities affording greater access and freedoms in the mountains to those carrying a licence.
Youth: Pavlos Georgiades (CMCOF, Cyprus) explained the importance of the Youth Commission in providing a platform to communicate with youth from all over the world. The YC will collaborate closely with other Commissions in creating a syllabus which can then be presented at different youth seminars integrated into UIAA-endorsed Youth events. Youth Commission events have been significantly impacted by Covid-19 but Georgiades hopes that in 2021 a greater number of national events can be held.
Rock Climbing: Anne Arran (BMC, UK) provided an update on the 2020 UIAA Rock Climbing Festival Award which has rolled into 2021. Application is now open for festivals in Oceania and SE Asia. Arran addressed how the Award, and collaboration with the UIAA’s Continental Bodies, enables the federation to dialogue with potential new members in different areas of the world.
The second panel discussion focus primarily on sustainability topics and advocacy.
Mountain Protection: Dr Carolina Adler (NZAC, New Zealand) provided an update on the Mountain Protection Commission’s work in three areas – the Mountain Protection Award, Respect the Mountains and the UIAA Sustainability Guidelines. Specific details can be found in a recent article. Dr Adler also detailed the UIAA’s longstanding commitment to climate change, including its signing of international resolutions and involvement in the UN Framework Convention on Climate Change, a platform for the UIAA to be the voice for the climbing and mountaineering community at a global level. She also referenced the work conducted in publishing the UIAA’s first annual Carbon Footprint Report and its support for past UIAA Mountain Protection Award winners through a recent communication series.
Climate Change: Having led a motion on climate change which was approved at last year’s GA, MC member Josef Klenner (DAV, Germany) followed up on progress made by the German Alpine Club. This has included not only advancing its longstanding commitment to replacing diesel with solar polar in mountain huts but also the federation’s ability to now act on the analysis it has undertaken on climate change. This includes tackling recommendations such as reducing the carbon emissions created by travel to its training courses and cutting back on its extensive printing material.
High Mountains and Overcrowding: Greg Moseley (MSA, South Africa) evolved a discussion which was held at least year’s GA on the overcrowding of some of the world’s most popular climbing routes. Moseley reflected that on these climbs the true spirit of mountaineering has sadly been lost. The UIAA will continue to advocate on the subject of overcrowding and issues such as the negative side of adventure tourism and increased accident rates often caused by inexperienced and underprepared mountain visitors using cable cars to fast-track access to summits.
New initiatives. Three members provided details on ‘best practice’ projects from their federations. Greg Moseley introduced an outreach programme organised by the Mountain Club of South Africa which offers youngsters from underprivileged backgrounds to visit mountain areas, often for the first time. Eduard Cayón (CEC, Catalonia) presented his federation’s work on inclusion and educational programmes which offer different groups a full immersion into mountain activities. Stein Tronstad (NCF, Norway) detailed his federation’s 30-year accident reporting system. The database, now fully digitised, provides Norwegian climbers with access not only to accident statistics but analysis articles on climber safety. Tronstad encouraged the UIAA to work on uniting best practices and data between different countries.
During the third panel, the UIAA addressed the work of its Anti-Doping, Ice Climbing, Medical and Safety Commissions as well as the work of its Covid-19 Crisis Consultation (CCC) Taskforce.
Ice Climbing: President of the UIAA Ice Climbing Commission Carlos Teixeira (FCMP, Portugal), communicated on the impact Covid-19 has had on competition ice climbing. While the 2020 season was successfully completed before the widespread outbreak of the pandemic, the 2021 season will witness significant changes. Further details are available here.
Anti-Doping: Vice President of the Commission Nenad Dikic (Serbia, representing ISF), detailed the working relationship with the Ice Climbing Commission and Unit Member, the International Skyrunning Federation. With a loss of competition and therefore in-competition testing, increased out of competition testing is taking place and the Commission is working in the implementation of the new WADA code for 2021. This will require changes to the existing UIAA clean climbing educational programme.
ISF: Silvio Calvi, representing the International Skyrunning Federation, informed delegates about the federation’s upcoming GA where its Strategic Plan 2020-2022 will be discussed. Calvi also reported on the difficulties of a near non-existent year for skyrunning events, very few competitions were held and those which took place were under significant restrictions. The ISF is also working with other organisations on a clearer definition of mountain running terminology.
Safety: Amit Chowdhury (IMF, India), Commission President, highlighted the imminent update of UIAA Standard 123 on rock anchors addressing the problem of stress corrosion cracking observed in many locations close to the sea. The new Standard proposes three classifications based on use: high, general and low corrosion resistant characteristics. SafeCom has conducted significant work through various working groups including those for proposed new standards such as avalanche probes, trekking poles, static ropes, prussik cords and load sharing devices. Further details can be found here. Chowdhury also promoted two resources on the UIAA website – an article providing guidance on the perils of buying climbing gear online, the second its new ‘Ask SafeCom’ series where the Commission answers gear-related questions from climbers.
MedCom: Urs Hefi (SAC, Switzerland) informed delegates about MedCom’s support for the first climbing paper published on Covid. It will be available on the UIAA website shortly. MedCom is working on three main projects – organising a training course in Africa with the MCSA in either 2021 or 2022; updating its advice paper on women in mountaineering; and producing a video on drinking safe water on expeditions.
Covid-19 Crisis Consultation (CCC) Taskforce: Françoise Jaquet (SAC, Switzerland): As a member of the UIAA Covid-19 CCC Taskforce, created in April as the UIAA’s coordinated and international response to the pandemic, Jaquet provided an insight into the group’s work and the type of support it provides. The UIAA Covid-19 portal has provided a wealth of information from and for UIAA member associations. It includes 77 member updates from 46 countries and 29 UIAA updates and statements. Members can also submit feedback through an online form.
Continental Reports
The UIAA Continental Bodies gave short reports, to be expanded in the 2020 UIAA Annual Report, on the main trends in their regions of the world.
Africa: Greg Moseley (MSCA, South Africa). The formation of the Confederation of African Mountain Clubs (CMAC) is an exciting development which may empower more clubs to become affiliated with the UIAA. Moseley also encouraged greater international participation in Pan-African meets and between international climbers and local climbers and clubs when visiting the continent.
Asia: Christine Pae (KAF, Korea). The UAAA (Union of Asian Alpine Associations) is the Continental body in Asia and counts 18 members from 13 countries, 15 of which are UIAA members. Pae discussed the impact of Covid-19 cancellations on programmes across the continent and its devasting impact on the Himalayan trekking and mountaineering season. On the bright side, the Asian Mountain Museum Alliance has been created to celebrate the shared mountain heritage between nations. So far it includes the involvement from associations in India, Korea, Japan, Nepal and Taiwan.
Central & South America: Martin Lascano (FASA, Argentina) presented the situation in a vast continent with a lot of untapped potential in terms of organised mountaineering activities. Five countries (Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Costa Rica and Guatemala) are currently members of the UIAA although there is significant interest from associations in other countries. National federations are enjoying considerable success in raising climbing and mountaineering topics at national level. Political issues, inaccessibility and poor infrastructure, remain concerns. The impact of Covid-19 has seen much of Latin America’s climbing areas closed, on a positive side it’s has mobilised the climbing community online.
Europe: Anne Arran (BMC, United Kingdom) detailed the work conducted by a number of associations in Europe notably EUMA, European Union of Mountaineering Associations. The UIAA has over 40 member associations on a continent with over 159,000km of mountain trails, 2,878 huts and shelters and 4,335 climbing areas. EUMA recently published a statement on climbing tourism, is working on a plotted map of mountain huts and on good governance. Further details can be found on its website.
North America: Peter Muir (ACC, Canada) will be vacating his position to Phil Powers (AAC, United States), recently retired CEO of the American Alpine Club (Mitsu Iwasaki, his successor, has held the role since June 2020). Muir paid tribute to Powers’s work which saw the AAC membership rise significantly and witnessed significant implementation in grassroots education and public policy. Muir also provided details on the activities of all UIAA members on the continent, subjects addressed in more detail in the 2019 UIAA Annual Report.
Oceania: Stuart Gray (NZAC, New Zealand) highlighted a number of areas including the impact on the Australian and New Zealand guiding community owing to the complete collapse of international tourism. Gray also tackled the contentious subject of access and land ownership where indigenous populations are reasserting their rights to land ownership and how to positively engage climbing communities in these debates. In Australia’s Grampian National Park 3,000 climbing routes are currently closed and in New Zealand significant discussions are taking place on the management of national parks. Gray also emphasised the UIAA’s ability to mediate on a selective basis in such discussions and to act through its global network.
UIAA Court
Pierre Humblet, President of the UIAA Court, reminded delegates about the role of the UIAA Court as an internal, independent judicial body of the UIAA. Its purpose is to help resolve possible disputes between the UIAA, UIAA members and UIAA bodies. The Court also provides regular advice concerning implementation of the UIAA Articles of Association, regulations and is also available to be consulted on historical aspects of the UIAA and its management structures.
Annual Report
UIAA Communication Manager Peter Bourne introduced the 2019 UIAA Annual Report and sister publication the GA Digital Magazine. As well as being a deliverable for the General Assembly, the Annual Report has undergone a number of updates and evolutions over the past two years with the scope of serving all stakeholders as a supporting document throughout the year. A digital version is available on the UIAA website and print copies sent to member federations in the summer of 2020. The digital magazine has been conceived to reduce the number of supporting documents for the GA and condense them into one publication. It dually serves as an update on UIAA activities between two editions of the Annual Report.
Over a number of months the UIAA Office – Nils Glatthard, Stephanie Stettbacher, Carol Kahoun, Rob Adie, Peter Bourne, Agnes Semelet and supported during the GA by moderator Tarquin Cooper and public notary Jonas Laager – worked diligently to guarantee all technical and digital solutions were in place and in wider preparations for the UIAA’s first ever digital GA.
Further Information
For further details on the UIAA General Assemblies click here.
The digital magazine, a Guide to the 2020 UIAA General Assembly, can be found here.
A full directory of UIAA member associations can be viewed here.
On 23 September, the UIAA Covid-19 Crisis Consultation (CCC) Taskforce held its fifth online meeting. The meeting notes are available here. All UIAA activity related to Covid-19 can be consulted through the dedicated Portal.
During the 23 September meeting, the CCC Taskforce agreed that the message of caution and optimism shared by the UIAA following its previous meeting, 4 August, remains appropriate.
The UIAA encourages climbers to follow guidelines published by competent authorities in their respective countries and regions. If climbing activities, whether outdoor or indoor, are permitted, climbers and mountaineers have a responsibility to ensure their activities do not have an impact in spreading the virus or stretching already overburdened medical resources. Only where and when permitted, climbers should be free to pursue their activities for both their own mental and physical well-being and for the wider good of the climbing and mountaineering industry.
The guidelines published by the UIAA in August remain relevant:
In general, prudence is required
Continue to climb/visit mountain areas if permitted
Prioritise local (domestic) climbing and outdoor activities
If travelling further, conduct appropriate research regarding the measures put in place
Do not assume the rules or conditions will be the same as at home
Avoid overburdening huts or popular climbing areas
Follow rules and guidance provided by UIAA members, or relevant authorities
As reported recently by the UIAA Access Commission, some UIAA member federations are reporting a rise in mountain accidents. A number of these incidents are being attributed to novice climbers and inexperienced mountain visitors getting into difficulties. To help people prepare for trips to the mountains, the UIAA has a number of resources, most free to download, available. They include:
UIAA Training material including the Alpine Summer Skills Handbook which tackles subjects from equipment preparation to planning a trip to reading the weather. A digital version, in English, can be purchased here.
Extracts from the Series can be found online through the UIAA Skills Series
If you are interested in developing your skills, many UIAA member associations run dedicated programmes of their own and through the UIAA. Contact details for all UIAA members can be found here.
Furthermore, to follow best sustainable practices when visiting the mountains, the UIAA Respect the Mountains Movement offers its ‘7-ways’ guidance.
The UIAA, in consultation with members of its CCC Taskforce representing the Himalaya region, would not yet encourage visiting the Himalayas and other regions where health authorities may be quickly tested by a spike in infections caused by the sudden arrival of numerous foreign visitors. In any case, and as reported during the latest CCC meeting, international flights to India and Nepal are currently only available to those relocating.
Unless for essential reasons, travel between continents is not advised. The UIAA itself has suspended all international meetings and conferences in 2020. Discussions will continue to take place electronically including the 2020 UIAA General Assembly.
The UIAA – International Climbing & Mountaineering Federation – has published a number of resources related to Covid-19.
The dedicated UIAA website Portal can be found here.
Reports from the meetings of the UIAA Covid-19 Crisis Consultation (CCC) task force.
Ahead of next month’s online UIAA General Assembly (GA), the UIAA Management Committee (MC) and Commission Presidents held a virtual session on Saturday 26 September with a focus both on preparing for the GA and the federation’s strategic plans for 2021 and beyond.
Following an opening address by UIAA President Frits Vrijlandt, chairing his penultimate MC meeting, UIAA General Secretary Lode Beckers detailed the progress made on the UIAA’s next Strategic Plan (the current SP expires at the end of this year). A final version will be presented for approval at the GA. The document unites elements of the current SP, topics discussed and voted on at the 2019 GA, feedback from the MC and the research and work undertaken by a SP Working Group over the past few years. Feedback integrated following this weekend’s MC meeting includes a greater emphasis on advocacy, on the goals of the three pillars and on the UIAA as the global mountain network.
During the second half of the meeting, each UIAA Commission provided a summary of progress made during 2020, one understandably impacted by the Covid-19 pandemic, and introduced their plans for 2021 and beyond. All of these plans were approved by the MC. This followed an update from UIAA Treasurer Peter Muir on revised Commission regulations. These were approved by the MC who agreed to allow flexibility with regards to choosing locations for Commission meetings. The identity of Executive Board Commission links will be reviewed and confirmed in due course.
Anti-Doping Marija ANDJELKOVIC (President), Serbia (PSS)
In the absence of Marija Andjelkovic, UIAA Sport Events Coordinator Rob Adie presented the mid-term priorities of the UIAA Anti-Doping Commission. These chiefly centre around the UIAA’s work in ensuring it remains WADA compliant through the integration of new WADA codes into existing regulations. These are most likely to be in force from 2022 given the potential freeze on the UIAA’s international competitions in 2021.
Ice Climbing Carlos TEIXEIRA, Portugal (FCMP), President
The mission for the UIAA Ice Climbing Commission is driven in part towards the sport’s future inclusion in the official Olympic Winter Games competition programme. In the meantime, the Commission is also looking at several enhancements to its running of the UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour. This includes joint projects with the UIAA Safety Commission on clothing Standards for speed events (to help prevent injury) and a Standard to ensure the uniformity of competition structures. Another focus is on improving the reliability and visibility of speed timing equipment. To ensure a more efficient delivery of projects, the Commission is also reviewing its own structure and working practices.
In light of the current global pandemic, contingency plans for the 2021 UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour are being made. With hosting international events in 2021 appearing a remote possibility, the UIAA is looking into a format of national and regional championships and working more closely with federations especially those not currently engaged in competition ice climbing.
Many of the UIAA Medical Commission members have been on the ‘frontline’ throughout the past few months which has had an impact on the progress of some projects. The Commission’s main focus for the coming years is to strengthen the UIAA’s position and visibility in the field of mountain medicine. An upcoming project will be dedicated to safe drinking water. MedCom is also looking at updating some of its existing recommendations especially those related to women and the mountains. The Commission, travel restrictions permitting, is looking at running a Mountain Medicine course in Africa and/or South America in the near future.
MedCom calls for all UIAA member associations to provide feedback and guidance on any advice papers they are interested in the Commission working on or revising. Please send any details to carol.kahoun@theuiaa.org
Covid-19 has had a significant impact on the work of the Mountaineering Commission given the ‘field nature’ of its activities. Its core project – run through Steve Long and the Training Panel – has seen all but one physical event cancelled in 2020. In the meantime the Training team, in collaboration with The Petzl Foundation, are working on new chapters of the UIAA Summer Skills Alpine Handbook. Some of this new material will be supported by legendary mountaineers Reinhold Messner and Doug Scott. Long-term training projects continue to evolve including three-year initiatives in Mongolia and Ladakh, India.
Other work of the Commission is on hold but likely to resume in 2021 including a short video series of Instagram, further development of the accident statistics database and research on the ISO 21101 certification project. The Commission is also looking at the feasibility of creating an online booking directory of mountain huts.
Details on the progress of the Commission’s other core area, Access, will be presented at the next MC meeting on 17 October.
Application for the MPA is open. However, the timeline for the 2020 MPA will extend into 2021 and the Award presented at the 2021 UIAA GA. The RTM international calendar remains visible and open for event submission. Some initiatives are taking place including those run by sponsor of the UIAA MPA, Bally, who have recently organised their own clean-up events. The Commission continues to work with the UN Environment and the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IMFGA) on the creation of educational events and awareness around climate change which could be incorporated into the RTM Movement.
The Commission is also revising the UIAA’s Sustainability Guidelines, with the target of publishing in 2022, and marking the 20-year anniversary of the UN’s ‘Year of the Mountains’. An external review is being conducted by the MPC into developing the UIAA Mountain Protection Award.
The MPC is also looking forward to further discussions at a GA level on climate change.
Several Working Groups have been created to ensure the delivery of new Standards and testing projects. There has been some natural delays owing to Covid-19 but the Commission’s targets for the next few years includes: a first international Standard for avalanche probes; helmet Standards – side impact; bolt corrosion project to improve the UIAA Standard on anchors focusing on stress corrosion cracking; a review of the EAS Via Ferrata testing method; improvements to both the bending test on type K carabiners – and the ice tool Standard wording and a deeper investigation into the aging of canyoning harnesses relating to early failures; issuing of Standards for rigging plates using the new term ‘load sharing devises (LSD)’, static ropes, trekking poles, prussik cords; a new testing programme to evaluate the cut resistance of textile PPE; the development of water repellency Standards for textile PPE and with the International Slackline Association (ISA), a UV testing programme.
Throughout 2020, the Commission has held a number of online and working group meetings and is also engaging with stakeholders to assess the impact of the pandemic on the climbing safety industry. Progress is ongoing regarding work on a new testing laboratory with the Chinese Mountaineering Association (CMA).
Youth
Pavlos GEORGIADES, Cyprus (CMCOF), President
The Youth Commission (YC) continues to evolve its future strategy including a new tiering systems for events. For the first time (due to Covid-19) the YC is endorsing national events including upcoming meets in Cyprus, France and Hong Kong. Members interested in registering events or further information are invited to contact rob.adie@theuiaa.org
An update was also presented regarding the annual UIAA Rock Climbing Festival Award which has also rolled into 2021 with application open to festivals in SE Asia and Oceania. The UIAA Rock Climbing Festival Award Group is liaising with the UIAA’s Continental Representatives in these continents to promote the Award, climbing areas in these regions and to engage with potential new members.
The next UIAA Management Committee and Commission Presidents’ meetings will be held on the weekend of 17-18 October, a week before the 2020 UIAA GA. A guide to the GA can be downloaded here.
Mountain ranges are often the natural borders between countries. The demarcation of borders in such remote and difficult geography can be contentious. This has led on occasion to diplomatic disputes with these border issues often dating back to colonial times. The United Nations Security Council recently issued a call for countries to “redouble their efforts for peace” during this period of combating the coronavirus pandemic that has already claimed more than half a million lives.
In these sometimes tense border situations, there are inevitably social and economic impacts on local communities for whom these areas are their traditional homes and provide their livelihood. In addition, access restrictions result in these areas being “locked up” and not accessible for critical conservation and climate change research or for access by mountaineers and mountain travellers.
The UIAA – International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – appreciates that border areas often have a problematic and disputed historical context. The demarcation may be complicated by the complexity of the topography and the difficulties in recognising, for example, the watersheds that can be the most logical border. In some instances, tectonic forces have led to streams and rivers apparently ignoring the laws of geomorphology by cutting through great mountain ranges. In others, the source of these drainages is complicated by the source being great masses of ice with no definite, natural watershed being evident – as was the case in Patagonia.
The UIAA appreciates that often mountain areas are of great geostrategic importance but as climbers and mountain travellers, we consider all mountain areas to be a great resource for the uplifting of the human spirit. They are fundamental to the very being and existence of local communities, but are also deeply valued by people around the globe. The UIAA in large part, exists to promote the sustainable use of mountain areas for recreation in the true sense of that word – re-creation. It is sad therefore that some mountain ranges have been, and are, the scenes of dispute.
Reflecting this deeper value to humankind a number of transnational parks have been created around the world in border regions and these are having a positive impact on environmental conservation, human activity and allowing the free transit of people across international borders in wild areas of the world. Examples spring to mind in Southern Africa and in Europe. Therefore, it seems logical that transnational parks could be created in many of the mountain ranges of the world.
The UIAA is a global body of mountain organisations dedicated to promoting safe, responsible access to mountains and to the protection and conservation of the world’s mountain ranges. We believe that the creation of trans-border protected areas could provide a space for cross border peaceful engagement as well as support for local communities through the economic opportunities provided by mountain tourism. People should not be excluded from such natural areas – there are examples from all over the world. Transnational parks in mountain border areas are an opportunity on a number of fronts, not least to embrace and support the elevation of the wider human spirit.
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UIAA – International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation
This statement was initiated by the international network of organisations and climbers who form and support the UIAA High Mountains Working Group and has benefitted from the comments and expertise of members of the UIAA Management Committee, Commission Presidents and Commission delegates.
The UIAA Executive Board wish to confirm its support for the initiative and the content of this statement.
“We are the Pilgrims, master; we shall go Always a little further: it may be Beyond that last blue mountain barred with Snow” James Elroy Flecker
A new study carried out by the EDYTEM – ISTerre laboratories, supported by the Petzl Foundation, has been conducted to better understand how rockfalls occur in the Goûter couloir, on the normal route up Mont Blanc. The study provides valuable information for mountaineers.
In particular the study analyses:
Which periods are the most dangerous for mountaineers? What is the ideal time of day to cross the couloir and climb the Goûter ridge?
As indicated in the short film to promote the latest research: the timeframe 09:00 and 10:00 has been identified as the best window to cross the coulour; in critical hours rock falls were calculated every 24 minutes, with a maximum frequency between 18:00 and 20:00. Rock falls are more frequent when snow melts in the couloir or after rainfall.
The subject of the relationship between climate change and safety in the mountains is of critical importance to the UIAA and is being addressed in cross-collaboration between the federation’s Mountain Protection (MP), Mountaineering and Safety Commissions. It will also be tackled in the revised UIAA Sustainability Guidelines. As Dr Carolina Adler, MPC President, explains: “Mountains are by their very nature highly dynamic environments and this is part of the inherent risk management that mountaineers need to consider in the pursuit of their activities in the mountains. Nevertheless, there are additional factors and drivers to these changes, such as the effects of climate change, that are accelerating, enhancing and/or changing the nature of these risks. Therefore, the timely analyses and recommendations made in the report warrant attention.”
The latest study – by Jacques Mourey – can be downloaded here.
As announced at the 2019 UIAA General Assembly, translations of the UIAA Alpine Summer Skills Handbook continue to grow.
The guide which covers general knowledge as well as various aspects of alpine hiking, climbing and alpinism, is produced in collaboration with the Petzl Foundation, and has now been commissioned in sixteen different languages.
Recent print editions include versions in Czech and Japanese. Climbers interested in copies in these languages are invited to contact the full UIAA member associations in the two countries.
The English language version is currently the only edition available for download. It can be purchased here.
Extracts from the English version, offering a flavour of the type of content available, can be viewed on the UIAA Skills page.
This new UIAA series focuses on the backgrounds of some of the hundreds of volunteers who dedicate precious time and considerable expertise to the federation each year. Klara Dvorakova, head of the UIAA’s Legal Experts Working Group, is the subject of the first profile.
Klara Dvorakova wears many hats. She is an attorney. A managing partner of a law firm specialising in travel business law, insurance and professional liability. The Honorary Consul of Iceland, as well as a wife and mother to two young boys. Yet still finds time to volunteer as head of the UIAA’s Legal Experts Working Group.
The Legal Experts Working Group is formed of lawyers from national mountaineering associations across the globe, whose expertise range from environmental and public law, damages, professional liability as well as sports and travel law.
In terms of her volunteer commitment, Klara mainly acts as a lawyer on call for the UIAA, giving up to 100 hours per year. Given the federation’s expanding reach and its increasing number of vital projects, the more likely it is that possible legal questions could arise. Much of the work of the Legal Experts Working Group is in collaboration with the both the Safety Commission and the Safety Label Co-ordinator, Stephanie Stettbacher, though the Group also works with the Management Committee, Sports Event Co-ordinator, Rob Adie, and other office staff.
The role of the Legal Experts Working Group can be wide ranging. A number of areas of concern can arise, whether that be Intellectual property (IP) law, trademark protection, safeguarding of UIAA standards, insurance and liability, whether for defective products, mountain leaders or climbing walls. The role also enables Klara to support other members of the LEWG, such as giving a presentation on liability and mountaineering on a course organised by long-time member Xabier Ezeizabarrena.
Klara’s association with the UIAA initially began in 2008 when she co-founded CZIML (Czech Mountain Leader Association). CZIML subsequently became a member of the Union of International Mountain Leader Associations (UIMLA) and the UIAA. Being responsible for CZIML’s international relations, Klara began attending meetings of the UIAA and its Commissions. Her first direct experience with the UIAA was in 2012, when she attended a meeting of the Training Standards Panel in Serbia led by Steve Long and the Legal Experts Working Group under the then gestion of Pierre Humblet, someone Klara recognises for his support.
Although she was aware of the UIAA’s role as an organisation which sets standards for training and mountaineering equipment, Klara confesses she didn’t know a great deal about the federation’s wider activities before joining. Her role as a volunteer for the UIAA, has enabled Klara to develop her love for the mountains as well as making new friendships and spending time with people who share similar interests. Klara’s wider role as a voluntary mountain leader enables her to enjoy the wonderful mountain activities outdoors and not just be confined to the office.
For all the benefits of volunteering, there are also challenges. “Having a busy job and family life can leave little personal time,” explains Klara. “Which is why it is important when volunteering to choose something that you are especially passionate about.”
As for the role of the UIAA in an ever changing global landscape and especially in the Covid-19 world, Klara believes it is essential that the organisation’s safety standards and Mountain Qualification Label projects require continued support and “that the UIAA as an organisation brings together all stakeholders – from sport, business, management and voluntary activities – to further the federation’s discussions and objectives”.
If the fallen climber isn’t injured and knows how to ascend a rope, crevasse self-rescue will be his/her quickest escape.
Precautions
Plan for self-rescue before a fall: “If I fall, brace yourselves as much as possible, install an anchor and keep the rope tight. I will climb back out.”
Make sure the climbers up on the surface have braced themselves properly. Wait until they’ve installed an anchor before you ascend the rope.
Required equipment
Two ascending devices. It’s much easier to use mechanical ascenders than friction (Prusik) hitches.
Spare rope reserved in the backpack.
The Steps
1 – Attach an ascending device or friction hitch to the rope, and clip it to your belay loop with a locking carabiner. Undo your shoulder coils. The load is now borne by the ascender/hitch at hip level.
2 – Remove your backpack and clip it to the rope: the added weight will aid in your ascent by keeping the rope taut.
3 – Place a second mechanical ascender (examples: Ropeman, Tibloc, handled ascender etc.) on the rope, above the ascending device/hitch already clipped to your harness. Clip a long sling to this upper ascender, to use as a foot loop. During the ascent, ensure that both ascending devices are connected to your belay loop.
4 – To ascend, first move up the foot-loop ascender, and then stand in the foot loop while moving the harness ascender up.
UIAA Alpine Summer Skills Guide
This extract comes from the UIAA Alpine: Summer Skills Handbook and a dedicated chapter on crevasse rescue.
Previous extracts from the UIAA Alpine Summer Skills Guide can be found on our dedicated Skills page.
To purchase a digital copy of guide in English click here. 3.99 GBP, 3.51 EUR, 3.99 USD (prices/exchange rates subject to change).
About the UIAA Alpine Skills Summer Guide
The UIAA Alpine Skills Summer guide was first published in 2015. Produced in collaboration with the Petzl Foundation, the guide and has been well received worldwide and is currently available in five languages. To mark the launch of a digital version of the publication, the UIAA is running a series of articles from the guide designed to help hikers, climbers and mountaineers develop their skills and knowledge of the mountain environment.
The guide was developed specifically as a reference document for trip leaders and instructors of club and federations within the UIAA – an aide memoire for climbers and mountaineers who attend training courses delivered by instructors and guides who have gained qualifications accredited by the UIAA. Now open to the wider climbing and mountaineering world, the handbook’s four modules focus primarily on summer activities. However, a specific winter guide is currently in production.
The months of May and June are traditionally busy with UIAA Commission meetings. Despite the restrictions placed on travel during Covid-19, the UIAA has been able to host a number of important online meetings throughout the past six weeks. In fact many Commissions and groups have met more frequently and with more members present. Proof that the dedication of the volunteers working within UIAA Commissions is as strong as ever.
On the weekend of 30-31 May, the UIAA Access Working Group (WG) met. Last year Access became closely integrated into the UIAA Mountaineering Commission (MountCom). Developing a workflow and a close relationship with MountCom was one of the main subjects of the latest meeting. Led by President Juan Jesús Ibañez Martin (Spain), the Access WG counts members from Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Chinese Taipei, Belgium, Hungary and Portugal. It is one of the groups in the UIAA with closest ties to South America, a continent where access to mountain areas is always a contentious topic at governmental level.
The WG also discussed the impact of Covid-19 on access, highlighting a desire to help members ensure a return to status quo is possible and whenever it is safe to do so. The WG agreed to focus closely on member relations. By improving the sharing of access-related information as a priority, the WG will help distribute information related to access regulations and defend the interests of UIAA members related to access.
To discover more about the UIAA and Access please click here.
To discover more about Access during Covid-19 please click here.
The UIAA – International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – has published its 2019 Annual Report.
The digital report provides easier access to key resources – such as UIAA news articles, video content and multimedia assets. Contents include:
President’s Annual Message
A Review of 2019
UIAA General Assembly 2019
UIAA Strategy Process
UIAA Financial Report
Details on UIAA member associations
UIAA Office, Communication & Sponsorship reports
Reports from every UIAA Commission (Access, Anti-Doping, Ice Climbing, MedCom, Mountaineering + Training, Mountain Protection, Safety, Youth) as well as the UIAA Rock Climbing Working Group and Unit Member, International Skyrunning Federation. Each chapter identifies benefits provided by each Commission for UIAA members.
The Steps
1 – Attach an ascending device or friction hitch to the rope, and clip it to your belay loop with a locking carabiner. Undo your shoulder coils. The load is now borne by the ascender/hitch at hip level.
The digital version can be downloaded