The UIAA – International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – held its annual General Assembly from 22-23 October. For the second year running the event was held online. A total of 128 delegates from over 71 member associations representing 56 countries attended.
The 2021 General Assembly marked a year since Peter Muir (Alpine Club of Canada) became the federation’s 14th President. Muir, head of a seven-strong Executive Board (EB), assessed the progress made over the past twelve months:
“As I wrote in my annual President’s message, I believe that the UIAA is based on sound principles and a common passion. Over the last year, the Executive Board has been assessing where we are at and what issues we have in order to establish a baseline to measure our progress over the next three years. These assessments are always work in progress. During the General Assembly we will address some common themes. These are – communication, our aim is to be smoother across our various levels and structures and introduce new ways of approaching meetings; an increased focus on the Strategic Plan in particular its goals. It is a very ambitious Plan, so the focus is on narrowing down key goals, and focusing on two-three priority tasks per Commission; assigning responsibilities and clearly defining who is carrying out tasks and ensuring a good pace in our activities while guided by our Articles of Association to take the time required when needed.”
Elections
The main election activity was confined to representatives of the Management Committee:
Management Committee newly-elected
Juan Jesús Ibáñez Martín, FEDME (Spain), Largest Continental Representative
Paul Carstensen, MCSA (South Africa), Continental Representative – Africa
Willy Montenegro, FEACH (Chile), Continental Representative – Central & South America
Paul Carstensen succeeds Greg Moseley whose term with the Management Committee came to an end. Greg Moseley’s work with the UIAA is the focus of a recent volunteer series article. The UIAA congratulates all new MC members on their elections and thanks Greg Moseley for his support.
Management Committee re-elected
Stuart Gray, NZAC (New Zealand), Continental Representative – Oceania
Pierre Humblet re-elected as Court President. All existing Court members re-elected – Franz Stämpfli, Marco del Zotto and Denis Poncelin.
In terms of membership, the UIAA continues to represent 90 member associations in 67 countries.
Guests at the GA included representatives from the UIAA’s international observer members – the International Slackline Association, the International Skyrunning Federation and the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations – The Petzl Foundation and former UIAA President Frits Vrijlandt.
Executive Board Working Groups
One of the first accomplishments of the current EB was the creation of a number of Working Groups (WGs) to guide the UIAA in the following areas: Commissions, External Relations, Internal Relations, Governance, Finance & Audit and Communication. Below is a brief overview of their findings to date:
Commissions WG: This Working Group has met with all Commission Presidents and attended several Commission meetings. On the basis of these meetings, it has produced a report making a number of recommendations to the Management Committee.
These include:
The need to improve communication and strengthen the two-way relationship between the Executive Board, Management Committee and Commissions
Consider granting independent Commission status to the Access WG
Consider granting independent Commission status to the Training WG
Proposing that the Legal Experts WG has an independent status outside of the Mountaineering Commission in order to support the UIAA as a whole more closely
Its next steps include consultation with Commissions, developing a menu of activities, defining specific task list descriptions for each Commission and presenting findings for MC approval.
External Relations WG: This WG has identified and evaluated the UIAA’s 50+ external relationships and is in the process of determining which ones are a priority and further developing partnerships in adventure tourism/travel, sustainability and other multinational federations.
Internal Relations WG: Work is underway with Continental Representatives (CRs) to create a task description for CRs and to work at CR level to strengthen relationships with existing and future members on each continent, with the goal of further developing the UIAA’s continental structures.
Governance WG: Is in a process of assessment. Its role is to be a watchguard for governance and ensure that the UIAA is properly equipped to deal with any issues and implement any changes where required.
Finance WG: Activities have focused on closing out the 2020 accounting year, the implementation of a new accounting software as well as developing the forecast for 2021 and budget for 2022. This active group has also set budget planning guidelines to standardise the budgeting process of Commissions as well as developing more defined Standard Operating Procedures.
Communication WG: Is primarily focused on the distribution of information to members and the wider climbing community. Plans include the further development of communication channels, upgrades to the UIAA website, enhancements to the UIAA Annual Report, supporting Commissions in developing their own publications and scoping potential new information products to offer UIAA members.
Strategic Plan
The 2021-2024 UIAA Strategic Plan (SP) was approved at last year’s GA. UIAA General Secretary Lode Beckers presented an update twelve months on.
The overarching focus of the SP is the question of providing the right benefits to members and ensuring the UIAA is clear on identifying what those benefits are.
This will be guided by the SP’s three key objectives:
Provide information and guidance
The UIAA has a proven track record in this area. Examples include the work of the UIAA Covid-19 Committee; support through solidarity schemes and throughout numerous Commission projects (such as mountain medicine advice papers)
Set and maintain standards in certain defined areas
Covid-19 Crisis Consultation Committee: Update from recent meetings and the support this group offers UIAA members
Panel 3: Sustainability & Sport Panel on Commission Projects:
2020-2021 UIAA Mountain Protection Award: A reveal of the 24 candidates, an explanation of the Award evaluation process and presentation of the Award ceremony to be held as a webinar, in conjunction with the project’s main partner Bally, on Friday 3 December, 1400 – 1530.
UIAA Mountain Worker Initiative: A project launched by the UIAA this year to support mountain workers, an update on its progress and the release of dedicated guidelines. Further details will be published on the UIAA website shortly.
UIAA Alpine Handbook new editions: An overview of the work underway on a new English edition, how members can order copies and on the continued translations.
Youth Innovation Panel: An overview of the UIAA’s future projects in the field of youth development .
The panel discussions can be viewed as part of a YouTube replay GA of the here.
Day 1: 2021 UIAA General Assembly
Day 2: 2021 UIAA General Assembly
A more in-depth review of each panel discussion will be produced in the coming weeks and feature as part of the 2021 UIAA Annual Report.
Upcoming General Assemblies
The 2022 UIAA General Assembly is scheduled to be held on Saturday 29 October in Banff, Canada and hosted by the Alpine Club of Canada. Trabzon, Turkey (Turkish Mountaineering Federation) is set to host the GA in 2023 and Malta (Malta Climbing Club) in 2024.
Upcoming Mountain Network Series events
The UIAA will host its third Mountain Network Series event of 2021 on Wednesday 17 November. The topic will be ‘Mountain Women’ and the webinar built around content from Herstory, a series of short films about the lives of different female climbers. Full details here.
The fourth and final UIAA Mountain Network Series event of 2021 will take place on Friday 3 December (1400-1530 CET) in the form of the UIAA Mountain Protection Award prizegiving.
Video Content
During the General Assembly, a number of videos were played. Members can access embed codes from the links below.
Bally Peak Outlook Series
UIAA & Mountain Water
UIAA Mountain Protection Award Promo (2021)
Sustainable Summits Promo 2021
International Skyrunning Federation: World Championships
After almost two years of translation, editing, proof reading, photo research, graphic design and printing, the Mountaineering Federation of North Macedonia (FPSM), in cooperation with the UIAA and with technical support from The Petzl Foundation, has published the Macedonian language version of the UIAA Alpine Skills: Summer Handbook. On 27 September it was officially made available to Macedonian mountaineers, climbers and alpinists.
Currently, the Handbook has been translated into 12 languages. It is available to members of mountaineering federations and clubs in French, English, Turkish, Korean, Mongolian, Chinese (Taiwan), Serbian, Czech, Japanese, Albanian, Romanian and now in Macedonian. Seven additional translations are in progress: Spanish, Farsi, Greek, Portuguese, Indonesian, Arabic and Ukrainian. Early this year an agreement was made for a translation into Lithuanian, which would become the 20th language in total.
“After carefully reading the handbook, the most skilled mountaineer and the one who thinks they know everything about mountaineering, rock climbing and alpinism, will realise that there is much more to learn or upgrade the acquired knowledge and experience,” explains Prof. dr. Jovica Ugrinovski, FPSM President.
“During the one-year work on the translation, I faced many dilemmas, especially with the translation of the technical terms for which, at least so far, for some of them there were no established terms in the Macedonian language. The practice so far, especially among climbers, has been to use English/French terms which, to some extent, have been adopted in everyday communication,” reveals translator Katica Garoska-Acevska.
For further details and to purchase a digital version of the English language version click here.
On 15 August 2021, the Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix celebrated its 200th anniversary. The first recognised mountain guides association was found by the town council of Chamonix on 24 July 1821.
The history of the Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix is a founding chapter in the history of both Alpinism and mountain guide profession. The celebrations provided an occasion to evoke the great stages of its existence and to shed light on the future of the whole profession and to better defend its prerogatives. But also to affirm an identity, a culture that shares the values of mountaineering as it was recognised as an Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO in 2019.
Details on the programme of festivities can be found here. The Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix also released a commemorative book and launched a number of environmental initiatives to mark the occasion, including a study into how global warming has impacted the guiding profession.
In recognition of the celebrations, Olivier Greber, President of the Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix wrote: “We would like, with all mountaineers, to make this historic event a strong platform to perpetuate the future of this unique profession.”
The UIAA was represented at the celebrations by Françoise Jaquet, Executive Board member.
Following a few years development, the upgraded UIAA Training Management System is now live.
Through this platform member federations can register for training qualifications, apply for accreditations and administer their accounts.
The platform is managed by the UIAA Training Panel, headed by Steve Long. “After a lot of hard work we are delighted to have launched the new platform which will make the process of applying and obtaining qualifications much easier for federations,” explains Long. “The platform will also enable the UIAA to more efficiently manage its qualification database and eventually extend the range of services it can offer members.”
A screengrab from the new UIAA Training Management System
Over the past few months, the platform has been fully tested in collaboration with a few member associations, with the full roll-out commencing at the beginning of June.
Registration details can be found here
A platform user guide can be found here
The UIAA website currently carries a world map where its training accreditations are plotted. Areas in green indicate an active accreditation, areas in brown show a recently expired certificate or a registered qualification working towards final accreditation.
In other training related news, the second version of the digital English language UIAA Alpine Summer Skills Handbook will be released shortly. A pre-order form for UIAA members will be circulated by the UIAA Office. Further details to follow.
For further details on the UIAA Training qualifications please visit the dedicated page (currently being updated).
Main photo: UIAA Training Course held in Jordan (2015). Credit: UIAA/Steve Long
The 2020 UIAA General Assembly (GA) was held on 23-24 October. Owing to the Covid-19 pandemic, the annual meeting took place online for the first time in the federation’s 88-year history. A record number of delegates – 130 representatives from 68 countries – joined on Zoom and a further 250 member federation representatives and partners followed an accompanying livestream on YouTube.
Presidential Election
Peter Muir from the Alpine Club of Canada (ACC) was elected as the new President of the UIAA. Muir becomes the UIAA’s 14th President (including two Acting Presidents) and the second from Canada.
Muir succeeds Frits Vrijlandt, Royal Dutch Climbing and Mountaineering Club (NKBV), Netherlands as UIAA President. Vrijlandt’s second and, as defined in the UIAA Articles of Association, final four-year term came to an end at this year’s General Assembly.
In his brief opening address, Muir said: “Thank you all for the faith you have expressed in me. I will work hard to meet a challenge that I take on with great enthusiasm. My message to all candidates and volunteers is that offering your time is appreciated and the most valuable thing you can give. Thank you to Frits for all of your contributions and dedication as UIAA President.” Muir also paid tribute to the campaigns of Amit Chowdhury, now an EB member, and Peter Farkas, UIAA Mountaineering Commission President, who both ran for Presidency.
Frits Vrijlandt on his final GA as UIAA President: “It is time for me to reflect on the past eight years. I am proud of all the work we have undertaken together and extremely proud to have been part of the UIAA family. There have been many highlights including welcoming new and returning members, witnessing the work of our Commissions and Continental bodies. Other achievements include the launch of the Mountain Protection Award, the Rock Climbing Festival Award, the Respect the Mountains Movement, the growth of competition ice climbing and the tremendous support we have received from sponsors and partners such as The North Face Korea, Outdoor Research, The Petzl Foundation and Bally. There have been some regrets as well such as the departure of CAI and for not succeeding yet in ice climbing becoming part of the official Olympic competition programme.”
Executive Board
Muir will lead an Executive Board comprised of:
Zoljargal Banzragch, Mongolia (elected in 2019), Mongolian National Climbing Federation
Lode Beckers, Belgium (elected in 2019), Climbing & Mountaineering Belgium Amit Chowdhury, India (elected in 2020), Indian Mountaineering Foundation
Mahmood Hashemi, Iran (elected in 2019), I.R. Iran Mountaineering & Sport Climbing Federation Françoise Jaquet, Switzerland (elected in 2020), Swiss Alpine Club Martin Lascano, Argentina (elected in 2020), Federaciòn Argentina de Ski y Andinismo
Board positions will be discussed and confirmed in due course.
Management Committee
The following nominees were elected to the UIAA Management Committee by the General Assembly:
Anne Arran (re-election), United Kingdom, British Mountaineering Council, Continental Representation: Europe
Kul Bahadur Gurung, Nepal, Nepal Mountaineering Association, General Representation
Steve Long, United Kingdom, British Mountaineering Council, General Representation
Jean Miczka, France, Fédération française des clubs alpins et de montagne, Largest Federation Representation
Greg Moseley (re-election), South Africa, Mountain Club of South Africa, Continental Representation: Africa
Phil Powers, United States, American Alpine Club, Continental Representation: North America
Stein Tronstad, Norway, The Norwegian Climbing Federation, General Representation
They join the existing MC members:
Simon Alden, Malta, Malta Climbing Club, General Representation
Joachim Driessen, Netherlands, Royal Dutch Climbing and Mountaineering Club, General Representation
Stuart Gray, New Zealand, New Zealand Alpine Club, Continental Representation: Oceania
Josef Klenner, Germany, German Alpine Club, Largest Federation Representation
Christine Pae, Korea, Korean Alpine Federation, Continental Representation: Asia
The UIAA thanks Frits Vrijlandt and outgoing Executive Board members Helène Denis (FFCAM, France) and Yongfeng Wang (CMA, China) as well as Management Committee members Georges Elzière (FFCAM, France), Juan Garrigos i Toro (FEDME, Spain) and Reza Zarei (IMSCF, Iran) for their longstanding commitment and dedication to the UIAA.
The backgrounds, skills and talents of new EB and MC members are diverse. They include those who have served in key roles such as president and board members of major national climbing federations. The range of professional backgrounds includes natural and political science, law, expedition and tourism management, international mountain guidance and training, polar research as well as civil and aeronautical engineering. The UIAA will undoubtedly benefit across all of its activities from the enthusiasm and expertise of its new EB and MC members – the diversity of personnel offers the UIAA greater universality, better representation and increased resources when facing the many and varied aspects of the federation.
EB and MC members now represent 18 countries from all continents reinforcing the UIAA’s role as The Global Mountain Network.
Member Association Elections
The UIAA General Assembly elected four new member associations during the General Assembly. They are:
Full Members
Mexico: Federación Mexicana de Deportes de Montaña y Escalada A.C Saudi Arabia: Saudi Climbing & Hiking Federation
Associate Member Azerbaijan: Mountain Club of Western Caspian University, Azerbaijan
Observer Member International: International Commission for Alpine Rescue (ICAR)
Changes of Membership Costarican Federation of Mountain Sports (FECODEM) is now elected as a Full Member, formerly an Observer Member National Adventure Association of Malaysia is now elected as a Full Member, formerly an Observer Member
Profiles of all new member associations will be published over the coming months.
Honorary Membership
Following a nomination put forward by the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) and presented by their President Lynn Robinson, legendary mountaineer Doug Scott, a former member of the UIAA Management Committee (2008-2012) and various UIAA Commissions (Mountaineering Commission 2011-2020 and the Traditional Values Working Group) was awarded Honorary Membership of the UIAA.
A champion for the traditional values of mountaineering, Doug Scott’s achievements are significant. The first Briton, alongside his friend Dougal Haston, to conquer Everest and on a previously unclimbed route up the South West Face, his list of climbing feats are remarkable and will be explored in greater detail in an upcoming profile.
Doug has committed himself to a number of projects including writing several memoirs and through his stewardship of Community Action Nepal (CAN), a charity dedicated to causes in the country where Doug achieved many of his feats. CAN won the UIAA Mountain Protection Award in 2018. He also spearheaded the UIAA paper ‘Preservation of Natural Rock for Adventure Climbing’, a cause he passionately campaigns. Doug Scott is also an honorary member of The Alpine Club and the American Alpine Club and Patron of the British Mountaineering Council.
Doug Scott was delighted with the recognition from the UIAA family: “This has been an unexpected honour which I am very proud to receive. I join a long list of names over the years for whom I have the greatest respect.”
Future General Assemblies
The location of future UIAA GAs is dependent on the possibility of international travel and the development of the Covid-19 pandemic. The GA voted on the locations of the next three meetings:
2021 Trabzon, Turkey on 23 October 2022 Banff, Canada, on 29 October 2023 Malta, date TBC
Strategic Plan UIAA 2021-2024
Presented by Lode Beckers, UIAA General Secretary, the GA voted to approve the process for the UIAA Strategic Plan 2021-2024. Beckers paid tribute to the valuable work conducted by various groups over recent years and explained that the Strategic Plan 2021-2024 will be a working process for the coming years.
It will be guided by the profile approved at the UIAA GA in 2019:
“The UIAA is the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation. As the leading global network, we promote climbing and mountaineering and advocate for access to climbing areas and mountain ranges. While looking to our future, we value our heritage and care for the mountains, their fragile ecosystems, vulnerable communities, and cultures. We serve the best interests of our member federations and of our worldwide community. For the Climbers. For the Mountains. For the World.”
The mission will be carried out through strategic priorities are defined as: 1. Provide guidance on critical and emerging mountaineering issues 2. Setting and maintaining high standards 3. Assisting and supporting national federations and their members
Beckers called for a ‘broadly based ownership of the implementation process’ from the new President through to member federations, Commissions, the EB, the MC and partners.
In charting the progress of the Strategic Plan 2021-2024, the UIAA will communicate regularly on the process.
Presentations and Panels
Alongside the formal part of the GA, a series of presentations and moderated panel discussions took place, designed both to provide members with information on UIAA activities, to discuss sharing of best practices and to debate some of the topical mountaineering questions of the day.
Moderated Panel Discussions
Panel discussions were moderated by Tarquin Cooper, UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour commentator.
The first panel discussion focused on working groups and Commission projects and tackled access, mountaineering and training, rock climbing, youth as well as an update from The Petzl Foundation on the progress of the UIAA Summer Skills Handbook translations.
Mountaineering: Peter Farkas (MHSSz, Hungary), MountCom President, highlighted the significant work undertaken in collating accident statistics, the result of nearly five years of research. MountCom is now working on delivering this information in an publishable format. The data will prove valuable in supporting the ‘safe adventure’ focus of the Commission.
Training: Steve Long (BMC, UK), Training Panel President, presented the UIAA’s valuable work in training and the framework it offers federations in delivering their own programmes. Long highlighted the close collaboration with UIAA observer members, IFMGA (International Federation of Mountain Guide Associations) and UMILA (Union of International Mountain Leader Associations) who work directly with guide and leader professionals. Vast experience and expertise is the fruit of this collaboration and now at the benefit of all members. The pending Skills Certificate project is another exciting arm of the Training Panel. It will provide individuals looking to climb safely, from hiking to ski mountaineering to adventure climbing, with the ability to find if an instructor is accredited at international level through their federation. This will have a benefit for all stakeholders – trainers, clubs, federations and eventually through this greater demand for membership, the UIAA.
UIAA Alpine Summer Skills Handbook: Stéphane Lozac’hmeur, The Petzl Foundation Project Manager, provided an overview of the progress made in their work with UIAA members of translations of the Alpine Summer Skills Handbook. Details, as well as work on new chapters, are provided in the UIAA Guide to the General Assembly. Lozac’hmeur emphasised that the Handbook is not a ‘for profit’ publication rather designed to help improve the core skills of climbers and mountain goers.
Access: Like Training, the Access Working Group forms part of the Mountaineering Commission. Its President Juan Jesus Ibanez Martin (FEDME, Spain) explained that the Access WG is working on creating an information library where documentation related to free and responsible access protocols can be shared. This will be of significant benefit to smaller UIAA members who may be dealing with access issues for the first time. Ibanez Martin also called for closer collaboration between the UIAA Access WG and Access representatives within UIAA member associations. He also addressed the situation mountain hut owners have faced throughout the Covid-19 pandemic particularly in Europe where the loss of the spring season was followed by complex summer months which saw a reduction in hut spaces and implementation of social distancing. One of the more positive aspects of recent months has been the recognition by some governmental authorities to those carrying a licence from a mountaineering club. During lockdown, there have been examples of authorities affording greater access and freedoms in the mountains to those carrying a licence.
Youth: Pavlos Georgiades (CMCOF, Cyprus) explained the importance of the Youth Commission in providing a platform to communicate with youth from all over the world. The YC will collaborate closely with other Commissions in creating a syllabus which can then be presented at different youth seminars integrated into UIAA-endorsed Youth events. Youth Commission events have been significantly impacted by Covid-19 but Georgiades hopes that in 2021 a greater number of national events can be held.
Rock Climbing: Anne Arran (BMC, UK) provided an update on the 2020 UIAA Rock Climbing Festival Award which has rolled into 2021. Application is now open for festivals in Oceania and SE Asia. Arran addressed how the Award, and collaboration with the UIAA’s Continental Bodies, enables the federation to dialogue with potential new members in different areas of the world.
The second panel discussion focus primarily on sustainability topics and advocacy.
Mountain Protection: Dr Carolina Adler (NZAC, New Zealand) provided an update on the Mountain Protection Commission’s work in three areas – the Mountain Protection Award, Respect the Mountains and the UIAA Sustainability Guidelines. Specific details can be found in a recent article. Dr Adler also detailed the UIAA’s longstanding commitment to climate change, including its signing of international resolutions and involvement in the UN Framework Convention on Climate Change, a platform for the UIAA to be the voice for the climbing and mountaineering community at a global level. She also referenced the work conducted in publishing the UIAA’s first annual Carbon Footprint Report and its support for past UIAA Mountain Protection Award winners through a recent communication series.
Climate Change: Having led a motion on climate change which was approved at last year’s GA, MC member Josef Klenner (DAV, Germany) followed up on progress made by the German Alpine Club. This has included not only advancing its longstanding commitment to replacing diesel with solar polar in mountain huts but also the federation’s ability to now act on the analysis it has undertaken on climate change. This includes tackling recommendations such as reducing the carbon emissions created by travel to its training courses and cutting back on its extensive printing material.
High Mountains and Overcrowding: Greg Moseley (MSA, South Africa) evolved a discussion which was held at least year’s GA on the overcrowding of some of the world’s most popular climbing routes. Moseley reflected that on these climbs the true spirit of mountaineering has sadly been lost. The UIAA will continue to advocate on the subject of overcrowding and issues such as the negative side of adventure tourism and increased accident rates often caused by inexperienced and underprepared mountain visitors using cable cars to fast-track access to summits.
New initiatives. Three members provided details on ‘best practice’ projects from their federations. Greg Moseley introduced an outreach programme organised by the Mountain Club of South Africa which offers youngsters from underprivileged backgrounds to visit mountain areas, often for the first time. Eduard Cayón (CEC, Catalonia) presented his federation’s work on inclusion and educational programmes which offer different groups a full immersion into mountain activities. Stein Tronstad (NCF, Norway) detailed his federation’s 30-year accident reporting system. The database, now fully digitised, provides Norwegian climbers with access not only to accident statistics but analysis articles on climber safety. Tronstad encouraged the UIAA to work on uniting best practices and data between different countries.
During the third panel, the UIAA addressed the work of its Anti-Doping, Ice Climbing, Medical and Safety Commissions as well as the work of its Covid-19 Crisis Consultation (CCC) Taskforce.
Ice Climbing: President of the UIAA Ice Climbing Commission Carlos Teixeira (FCMP, Portugal), communicated on the impact Covid-19 has had on competition ice climbing. While the 2020 season was successfully completed before the widespread outbreak of the pandemic, the 2021 season will witness significant changes. Further details are available here.
Anti-Doping: Vice President of the Commission Nenad Dikic (Serbia, representing ISF), detailed the working relationship with the Ice Climbing Commission and Unit Member, the International Skyrunning Federation. With a loss of competition and therefore in-competition testing, increased out of competition testing is taking place and the Commission is working in the implementation of the new WADA code for 2021. This will require changes to the existing UIAA clean climbing educational programme.
ISF: Silvio Calvi, representing the International Skyrunning Federation, informed delegates about the federation’s upcoming GA where its Strategic Plan 2020-2022 will be discussed. Calvi also reported on the difficulties of a near non-existent year for skyrunning events, very few competitions were held and those which took place were under significant restrictions. The ISF is also working with other organisations on a clearer definition of mountain running terminology.
Safety: Amit Chowdhury (IMF, India), Commission President, highlighted the imminent update of UIAA Standard 123 on rock anchors addressing the problem of stress corrosion cracking observed in many locations close to the sea. The new Standard proposes three classifications based on use: high, general and low corrosion resistant characteristics. SafeCom has conducted significant work through various working groups including those for proposed new standards such as avalanche probes, trekking poles, static ropes, prussik cords and load sharing devices. Further details can be found here. Chowdhury also promoted two resources on the UIAA website – an article providing guidance on the perils of buying climbing gear online, the second its new ‘Ask SafeCom’ series where the Commission answers gear-related questions from climbers.
MedCom: Urs Hefi (SAC, Switzerland) informed delegates about MedCom’s support for the first climbing paper published on Covid. It will be available on the UIAA website shortly. MedCom is working on three main projects – organising a training course in Africa with the MCSA in either 2021 or 2022; updating its advice paper on women in mountaineering; and producing a video on drinking safe water on expeditions.
Covid-19 Crisis Consultation (CCC) Taskforce: Françoise Jaquet (SAC, Switzerland): As a member of the UIAA Covid-19 CCC Taskforce, created in April as the UIAA’s coordinated and international response to the pandemic, Jaquet provided an insight into the group’s work and the type of support it provides. The UIAA Covid-19 portal has provided a wealth of information from and for UIAA member associations. It includes 77 member updates from 46 countries and 29 UIAA updates and statements. Members can also submit feedback through an online form.
Continental Reports
The UIAA Continental Bodies gave short reports, to be expanded in the 2020 UIAA Annual Report, on the main trends in their regions of the world.
Africa: Greg Moseley (MSCA, South Africa). The formation of the Confederation of African Mountain Clubs (CMAC) is an exciting development which may empower more clubs to become affiliated with the UIAA. Moseley also encouraged greater international participation in Pan-African meets and between international climbers and local climbers and clubs when visiting the continent.
Asia: Christine Pae (KAF, Korea). The UAAA (Union of Asian Alpine Associations) is the Continental body in Asia and counts 18 members from 13 countries, 15 of which are UIAA members. Pae discussed the impact of Covid-19 cancellations on programmes across the continent and its devasting impact on the Himalayan trekking and mountaineering season. On the bright side, the Asian Mountain Museum Alliance has been created to celebrate the shared mountain heritage between nations. So far it includes the involvement from associations in India, Korea, Japan, Nepal and Taiwan.
Central & South America: Martin Lascano (FASA, Argentina) presented the situation in a vast continent with a lot of untapped potential in terms of organised mountaineering activities. Five countries (Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Costa Rica and Guatemala) are currently members of the UIAA although there is significant interest from associations in other countries. National federations are enjoying considerable success in raising climbing and mountaineering topics at national level. Political issues, inaccessibility and poor infrastructure, remain concerns. The impact of Covid-19 has seen much of Latin America’s climbing areas closed, on a positive side it’s has mobilised the climbing community online.
Europe: Anne Arran (BMC, United Kingdom) detailed the work conducted by a number of associations in Europe notably EUMA, European Union of Mountaineering Associations. The UIAA has over 40 member associations on a continent with over 159,000km of mountain trails, 2,878 huts and shelters and 4,335 climbing areas. EUMA recently published a statement on climbing tourism, is working on a plotted map of mountain huts and on good governance. Further details can be found on its website.
North America: Peter Muir (ACC, Canada) will be vacating his position to Phil Powers (AAC, United States), recently retired CEO of the American Alpine Club (Mitsu Iwasaki, his successor, has held the role since June 2020). Muir paid tribute to Powers’s work which saw the AAC membership rise significantly and witnessed significant implementation in grassroots education and public policy. Muir also provided details on the activities of all UIAA members on the continent, subjects addressed in more detail in the 2019 UIAA Annual Report.
Oceania: Stuart Gray (NZAC, New Zealand) highlighted a number of areas including the impact on the Australian and New Zealand guiding community owing to the complete collapse of international tourism. Gray also tackled the contentious subject of access and land ownership where indigenous populations are reasserting their rights to land ownership and how to positively engage climbing communities in these debates. In Australia’s Grampian National Park 3,000 climbing routes are currently closed and in New Zealand significant discussions are taking place on the management of national parks. Gray also emphasised the UIAA’s ability to mediate on a selective basis in such discussions and to act through its global network.
UIAA Court
Pierre Humblet, President of the UIAA Court, reminded delegates about the role of the UIAA Court as an internal, independent judicial body of the UIAA. Its purpose is to help resolve possible disputes between the UIAA, UIAA members and UIAA bodies. The Court also provides regular advice concerning implementation of the UIAA Articles of Association, regulations and is also available to be consulted on historical aspects of the UIAA and its management structures.
Annual Report
UIAA Communication Manager Peter Bourne introduced the 2019 UIAA Annual Report and sister publication the GA Digital Magazine. As well as being a deliverable for the General Assembly, the Annual Report has undergone a number of updates and evolutions over the past two years with the scope of serving all stakeholders as a supporting document throughout the year. A digital version is available on the UIAA website and print copies sent to member federations in the summer of 2020. The digital magazine has been conceived to reduce the number of supporting documents for the GA and condense them into one publication. It dually serves as an update on UIAA activities between two editions of the Annual Report.
Over a number of months the UIAA Office – Nils Glatthard, Stephanie Stettbacher, Carol Kahoun, Rob Adie, Peter Bourne, Agnes Semelet and supported during the GA by moderator Tarquin Cooper and public notary Jonas Laager – worked diligently to guarantee all technical and digital solutions were in place and in wider preparations for the UIAA’s first ever digital GA.
Further Information
For further details on the UIAA General Assemblies click here.
The digital magazine, a Guide to the 2020 UIAA General Assembly, can be found here.
A full directory of UIAA member associations can be viewed here.
Ahead of next month’s online UIAA General Assembly (GA), the UIAA Management Committee (MC) and Commission Presidents held a virtual session on Saturday 26 September with a focus both on preparing for the GA and the federation’s strategic plans for 2021 and beyond.
Following an opening address by UIAA President Frits Vrijlandt, chairing his penultimate MC meeting, UIAA General Secretary Lode Beckers detailed the progress made on the UIAA’s next Strategic Plan (the current SP expires at the end of this year). A final version will be presented for approval at the GA. The document unites elements of the current SP, topics discussed and voted on at the 2019 GA, feedback from the MC and the research and work undertaken by a SP Working Group over the past few years. Feedback integrated following this weekend’s MC meeting includes a greater emphasis on advocacy, on the goals of the three pillars and on the UIAA as the global mountain network.
During the second half of the meeting, each UIAA Commission provided a summary of progress made during 2020, one understandably impacted by the Covid-19 pandemic, and introduced their plans for 2021 and beyond. All of these plans were approved by the MC. This followed an update from UIAA Treasurer Peter Muir on revised Commission regulations. These were approved by the MC who agreed to allow flexibility with regards to choosing locations for Commission meetings. The identity of Executive Board Commission links will be reviewed and confirmed in due course.
Anti-Doping Marija ANDJELKOVIC (President), Serbia (PSS)
In the absence of Marija Andjelkovic, UIAA Sport Events Coordinator Rob Adie presented the mid-term priorities of the UIAA Anti-Doping Commission. These chiefly centre around the UIAA’s work in ensuring it remains WADA compliant through the integration of new WADA codes into existing regulations. These are most likely to be in force from 2022 given the potential freeze on the UIAA’s international competitions in 2021.
Ice Climbing Carlos TEIXEIRA, Portugal (FCMP), President
The mission for the UIAA Ice Climbing Commission is driven in part towards the sport’s future inclusion in the official Olympic Winter Games competition programme. In the meantime, the Commission is also looking at several enhancements to its running of the UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour. This includes joint projects with the UIAA Safety Commission on clothing Standards for speed events (to help prevent injury) and a Standard to ensure the uniformity of competition structures. Another focus is on improving the reliability and visibility of speed timing equipment. To ensure a more efficient delivery of projects, the Commission is also reviewing its own structure and working practices.
In light of the current global pandemic, contingency plans for the 2021 UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour are being made. With hosting international events in 2021 appearing a remote possibility, the UIAA is looking into a format of national and regional championships and working more closely with federations especially those not currently engaged in competition ice climbing.
Many of the UIAA Medical Commission members have been on the ‘frontline’ throughout the past few months which has had an impact on the progress of some projects. The Commission’s main focus for the coming years is to strengthen the UIAA’s position and visibility in the field of mountain medicine. An upcoming project will be dedicated to safe drinking water. MedCom is also looking at updating some of its existing recommendations especially those related to women and the mountains. The Commission, travel restrictions permitting, is looking at running a Mountain Medicine course in Africa and/or South America in the near future.
MedCom calls for all UIAA member associations to provide feedback and guidance on any advice papers they are interested in the Commission working on or revising. Please send any details to carol.kahoun@theuiaa.org
Covid-19 has had a significant impact on the work of the Mountaineering Commission given the ‘field nature’ of its activities. Its core project – run through Steve Long and the Training Panel – has seen all but one physical event cancelled in 2020. In the meantime the Training team, in collaboration with The Petzl Foundation, are working on new chapters of the UIAA Summer Skills Alpine Handbook. Some of this new material will be supported by legendary mountaineers Reinhold Messner and Doug Scott. Long-term training projects continue to evolve including three-year initiatives in Mongolia and Ladakh, India.
Other work of the Commission is on hold but likely to resume in 2021 including a short video series of Instagram, further development of the accident statistics database and research on the ISO 21101 certification project. The Commission is also looking at the feasibility of creating an online booking directory of mountain huts.
Details on the progress of the Commission’s other core area, Access, will be presented at the next MC meeting on 17 October.
Application for the MPA is open. However, the timeline for the 2020 MPA will extend into 2021 and the Award presented at the 2021 UIAA GA. The RTM international calendar remains visible and open for event submission. Some initiatives are taking place including those run by sponsor of the UIAA MPA, Bally, who have recently organised their own clean-up events. The Commission continues to work with the UN Environment and the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IMFGA) on the creation of educational events and awareness around climate change which could be incorporated into the RTM Movement.
The Commission is also revising the UIAA’s Sustainability Guidelines, with the target of publishing in 2022, and marking the 20-year anniversary of the UN’s ‘Year of the Mountains’. An external review is being conducted by the MPC into developing the UIAA Mountain Protection Award.
The MPC is also looking forward to further discussions at a GA level on climate change.
Several Working Groups have been created to ensure the delivery of new Standards and testing projects. There has been some natural delays owing to Covid-19 but the Commission’s targets for the next few years includes: a first international Standard for avalanche probes; helmet Standards – side impact; bolt corrosion project to improve the UIAA Standard on anchors focusing on stress corrosion cracking; a review of the EAS Via Ferrata testing method; improvements to both the bending test on type K carabiners – and the ice tool Standard wording and a deeper investigation into the aging of canyoning harnesses relating to early failures; issuing of Standards for rigging plates using the new term ‘load sharing devises (LSD)’, static ropes, trekking poles, prussik cords; a new testing programme to evaluate the cut resistance of textile PPE; the development of water repellency Standards for textile PPE and with the International Slackline Association (ISA), a UV testing programme.
Throughout 2020, the Commission has held a number of online and working group meetings and is also engaging with stakeholders to assess the impact of the pandemic on the climbing safety industry. Progress is ongoing regarding work on a new testing laboratory with the Chinese Mountaineering Association (CMA).
Youth
Pavlos GEORGIADES, Cyprus (CMCOF), President
The Youth Commission (YC) continues to evolve its future strategy including a new tiering systems for events. For the first time (due to Covid-19) the YC is endorsing national events including upcoming meets in Cyprus, France and Hong Kong. Members interested in registering events or further information are invited to contact rob.adie@theuiaa.org
An update was also presented regarding the annual UIAA Rock Climbing Festival Award which has also rolled into 2021 with application open to festivals in SE Asia and Oceania. The UIAA Rock Climbing Festival Award Group is liaising with the UIAA’s Continental Representatives in these continents to promote the Award, climbing areas in these regions and to engage with potential new members.
The next UIAA Management Committee and Commission Presidents’ meetings will be held on the weekend of 17-18 October, a week before the 2020 UIAA GA. A guide to the GA can be downloaded here.
The UIAA – International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – regularly receives questions related to safety topics. The UIAA Safety Commission, with support of other UIAA Commissions and experts, has commenced a series of articles answering common questions with the objective of making them available to the wider climbing community.
This first topic is:
A number of climbers put on sunscreen when at the crag, climbing or belaying. Does it damage equipment?
UIAA SafeCom: What effects certain substances have on the performance of rope is an interesting topic. John McKently and collaborators have previous led discussions on this subject. Their research has strong practicality but is now a little dated and covers some standard everyday substances that ropes could be exposed to. Sunblock/cream was not one of the areas addressed. Furthermore, sunblock can vary by composition, and its nature can change on a fairly regular basis (such as newer formulations being reef-sensitive). McKently did find that pH seemed to be the worst offender of nylon.
Having said that, nylon products like ropes, slings and cords are the ones to be concerned about with respect to exposure to sunscreen and/or insect repellents. SafeCom does not envisage any reason why metal products would be attacked, with respect to any likely contact with a small amount of sunscreen.
For nylon used in climbing items, it is well known that some chemicals, like sulphuric acid – even in very small amounts and even as a vapour – can lead to climbing rope failure (sadly there have been accidents and fatalities due to this). And that whilst SafeCom doubts there is sulphuric acid in sunscreen, or other sprays and lotions (such as insect repellent), there might well be a chemical presence in some brands that does attack nylon. For instance it is known that certain types of insect repellent can damage plastics, and might be prone to attack nylon climbing equipment too.
Therefore, as would seem common sense, SafeCom recommends that climbers do their best not to get sunscreen or other lotions and sprays on any climbing gear, and especially not on nylon products. Sunscreen designed for lips needs to be safe to swallow in small quantities, therefore as a rough rule of thumb is probably not going to be aggressive enough to attack your rope.
SafeCom does not currently have the resources to investigate further, but would welcome research into the following suspicion: sunscreens that contain alcohol, or other solvents that evaporate, are probably more aggressive than those that are in effect zinc oxide-based.
Furthermore sunscreen can be very debilitating if entering ones eyes through perspiration, and then made worse by rubbing eyes, especially if hands still have suncream on them. Is is advisable to carry a handkerchief or glasses cloth for this purpose and to wash/cleanse hands after applying suncream.
To submit a question to be addressed by the UIAA Safety Commission please click here.
As announced at the 2019 UIAA General Assembly, translations of the UIAA Alpine Summer Skills Handbook continue to grow.
The guide which covers general knowledge as well as various aspects of alpine hiking, climbing and alpinism, is produced in collaboration with the Petzl Foundation, and has now been commissioned in sixteen different languages.
Recent print editions include versions in Czech and Japanese. Climbers interested in copies in these languages are invited to contact the full UIAA member associations in the two countries.
The English language version is currently the only edition available for download. It can be purchased here.
Extracts from the English version, offering a flavour of the type of content available, can be viewed on the UIAA Skills page.
The UIAA – International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – has published its 2019 Annual Report.
The digital report provides easier access to key resources – such as UIAA news articles, video content and multimedia assets. Contents include:
President’s Annual Message
A Review of 2019
UIAA General Assembly 2019
UIAA Strategy Process
UIAA Financial Report
Details on UIAA member associations
UIAA Office, Communication & Sponsorship reports
Reports from every UIAA Commission (Access, Anti-Doping, Ice Climbing, MedCom, Mountaineering + Training, Mountain Protection, Safety, Youth) as well as the UIAA Rock Climbing Working Group and Unit Member, International Skyrunning Federation. Each chapter identifies benefits provided by each Commission for UIAA members.
For the first time in the UIAA’s near 90-year history, and owing to the Covid-19 pandemic, its biannual Management Committee meeting was held online. The virtual format proved to be a success. All discussion topics and voting were successfully negotiated and all MC members, delegates from each and every continent, were able to join. The MC, held on Friday 1 May, was followed by a meeting of the UIAA Commission Presidents on Saturday 2 May.
MANAGEMENT COMMITTEE MEETING
UIAA President Frits Vrijlandt opened the meeting by addressing the Covid-19 pandemic, the current impact on the UIAA and its membership. Vrijlandt detailed some of the important measures and support the UIAA has put in place – notably a Covid-19 Crisis Consultation (CCC) Taskforce and a dedicated website portal. The CCC, which held its first meeting on 28 April, and counts a number of MC members amongst its representatives, has been put in place to offer a structure for the UIAA to provide answers, to guide people to the relevant government or competent authorities, to a crisis management body, to a competent national federation or to a relevant UIAA Commission.
The dedicated website portal offers a number of services. It allows members to share updates from their own countries on the impact of the pandemic, the measures they are implementing and complying with. It also offers an insight into the impact on UIAA Commission work and projects. The platform also provides general information for climbers on topics such as training, mental health and the wider impact on climbing and mountaineering. Shortly, the UIAA will start to address specific topics such as the situation with mountain huts. Through online forms, members will be able to share updates and information. To date, over 40% of UIAA members have contributed to the Portal.
The 2019 UIAA Annual Report (above) was approved for publishing and will be available to members and the general public from mid-May. Regarding the ongoing review of the UIAA Strategy, it was decided that recent re-stated priorities proposal requires further development to align with the key decisions taken at the 2019 UIAA General Assembly.
The organisation (format, location and date) of the 2020 UIAA General Assembly remains an open topic owing to the Covid-19 situation. The MC discussed various scenarios for the staging of the event. Further details will be communicated following a follow-up MC meeting on 5 June. The UIAA is in regular contact with hosts, Turkish Mountaineering Federation (TDF), and medical experts. No preliminary assessment procedures will be in place for the UIAA Presidential election (held at the 2020 GA). As per the AoAs, the deadline for nominations is 14 August 2020.
Thirteen new UIAA Commission members were elected. The relevant Commission lists will be updated on the UIAA website in due course. Dr Carolina Adler (New Zealand) was re-elected as President of the Mountain Protection Commission and Pavlos Georgiades (Cyprus) was elected as the new President of the UIAA Youth Commission. He succeeds Mark Dennison (United Kingdom), who the UIAA thanks for his hard work and dedication throughout his tenure.
COMMISSION PRESIDENT MEETING REVIEW
Frits Vrijlandt provided Commission Presidents with a rundown of the key takeaways from the previous day’s MC meeting. As well as ongoing discussions regarding cross Commission collaboration, budgets and Commission regulations, each CP provided an update on ongoing activities:
Given the current freezing of competition sport, any in-competition testing has been put on hold. Out of competition testing may continue. The Commission is primarily focusing on compliance with the upcoming changes to WADA (World Anti-Doping Agency) regulations.
The 2019-2020 UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour concluded before lockdown. However, the impact on next season’s calendar, which provisionally is almost complete and looks impressive, is being closely monitored. An online Commission meeting will be held on 9-10 May. The Commission will also discuss the negative impact that the cancellation of events has had in the past and will seek to rectify this issue in the future.
Updates were provided regarding the 2020 UIAA Mountain Protection Award. Photo: Save our Winters
The MP is another Commission planning to hold an online meeting this month. Dr Adler detailed the number of international conferences which had been cancelled in 2020. Regarding the 2020 UIAA Mountain Protection Award, a communication will be published shortly. The MPC has agreed to postpone the Award to 2021 while leaving the platform open for submissions. Regarding the Respect the Mountains (RTM) international calendar, events may shortly be promoted on a case-by-case basis and subject to organisers adhering to guidelines from competent authorities in their respective countries.
A full review of projects is ongoing including the accident report project (closed down, data to be analysed); ISO certificate project and a Style and Ethics initiative, which will focus on a review, and potential face lift, of some existing UIAA declarations.
The Mountaineering Commission also has two sub-groups, Access and Training.
The main priority is the Access WG’s integration into the Mountaineering Commission. Access will also be an increasingly important and contentious issue when lockdown rules are relaxed or adapted in different countries. The UIAA continues to monitor issues related to Everest (Covid-19 has stopped progress) and Kilimanjaro (currently no updates).
UIAA Training projects continue to deliver member benefits. Photo: Steve Long
Since his election as President at the spring MC in 2019, Urs Hefti has focused on the restructuring of the Commission and its activities and has called for UIAA member federations to provide greater clarity regarding the work they would like MedCom to focus on (notably recommendation papers).
The annual SafeCom meeting scheduled for early May has been cancelled and may be replaced by an online meeting in June. Two new accredited laboratories for equipment testing have been accepted, in France, CRITT, and in Scotland, Sports lab. A request has also been made by the Chinese Mountaineering Association (CMA) to accredit a new lab in mainland China. Ongoing projects including: corrosion studies (the UIAA invites members and climbers to submit examples of Climbing Anchor Corrosion. Information can be supplied through a dedicated form); Slacklining (impact of UV radiation and weather on textiles) and a WG related to new Standards have all been held up. Work on probes has continued in collaboration with WG leader from the Italian Alpine Club (CAI). A recent safety advice article was published on canyoning harnesses.
Newly-elected YC President Pavlos Georgiades provided a snapshot of the future focus of the Commission – notably collaboration with the Training Panel to produce certificates and standards for youth camps and a stronger management from the Commission in running UIAA Youth camps (together with member federations).
‘Freeride Skiing at home’ – by Philipp Klein. UIAA President Frits Vrijlandt played this clip as part of his opening address. The video typical of the spirit and creativity the outdoor community has fostered during lockdown
The digital version can be downloaded 
